Archive for the ‘Hammerhead shark’ Category

Checkout first dive of the trip with whaleshark, giant mantas, galapagos and scalloped hammerhead sharks!!!! May 6, 2010. Captain and diveguide log.

Friday, May 7th, 2010

What a difference one charter can make:  we were out at the Boiler by San Benedicto Island and had variable sea conditions and challenging diving for our film production crew, today nothing but flat calm and sunny. In fact, what more can one say about a 26 hour  transit from Cabo San Lucas, South to Socorro when there is not a swell to roll you, not a cloud to shade you, not even a wind to stir the seas. The Pacific surely lived upto its name as we slid over the horizon. Not exactly the proverbial ‘painted ship on a painted ocean’ but you can really appreciate the smootheness of the seas when Venus makes a gloaming trail across the sea. And Stars, exceptional clarity of the Milky Way as we were without Moonlight for the duration of my watch. Firstlight finds us 45 nautical miles out but San Benedicto stood out in bold relief on the horizon before us; we circumnavigated the island close aboard to take in all the impressive colours of the cliffs and Volcanic caldera. An unusual Southern swell made the ‘leeward’ side of the island seas rather like a glacial lake.. pretty Jade waters to look at from above but too low vis to bother with from below. ‘The Boiler’ was our better choice and now Sten will take you below for the checkout dive. Captain Marco

The crossing from Cabo San Lucas down was like a mirror. Nice flat and calm. And sunny. When the sun went down the horizon was so clear that you could easily see the green light just that microsecond before the sea swallowed the sun. Larry our canadian engineer who have just started with us have been at sea for 25 years and today was his first time he saw it! Must be a bit more clouds up in canada probably…

We had a strange south swell that had stirred up the water in the south by the canyon to a greenish soup that we decided as it was so calm that we moved up Nautilus Explorer direct to the Boiler. Visibility in the Boiler was excellent.

We jumped in the blue clear water , today a bit colder then last week ca 2 C colder! We got control over our gear did a weight check and it did not thke long time until we had two giant mantas coming up to us. And they stayed. Enjoying the dive and as well we whispered in a Galapagos shark that took several turns around us. Also hammerhead sharks. Just when our diveguide Pedro signed to me I am going up to the Nautilus Explorer and then we both turned our head and see this huge shadow above us Whale shark!!It was a nice well fed male whaleshark estimated 8-9 m long 25 – 30 feet.   Well Pedro did not return back to the boat. And this whale shark made several turns back to us so we had a good time to take photos and whatched him. It almost looked like the whaleshark was curiouse in to us I had to swim away from his head twice for not colliding in to him. Suddenly the mantas where not so interessting any longer.  Well that was a bit of a check out dive.

The second dive was giving especially the rebreather divers a beautiful scheen of what they said a wall of scalloped hammerheads.  Two mantas still there but no whaleshark came back.  Good start on our trip.

Dive guide Sten

Surface condition: Dead calm , sunny, not so warm in the air though ca 25-27 C

Underwater: Mild current Boiler good viz 100+ ft. Cold water 73 F or 22 C.

Mantas, mantas, manta and loads of in-water time working with a film-crew at San Benedicto Island. Divemaster log. May 3, 2010.

Wednesday, May 5th, 2010

We have had our last two days shooting at the Boiler at San Benedicto Island  and it has been a lot of time in the water.  Our normal day is to start to get a few divers in the water at around 09:00 and wait for the mantas getting in to the Boiler to get cleaned by mainly Clarion Angel fish and Cortez chubs.

When the light and the giant mantas arrive and have been getting more and more interessted in the scuba divers we take out the freedivers and put the film team in the water. It is hectic. The camera just takes 1,5 min and then need to get changed. It is a 35 mm film so very high quality. While the film camera is getting loaded we work with two still cameras and one HD camera. The film team holding the cameras under water are 3 and then two models and one of us from the crew of nautilus as a snorkeler and free  diver. On the surface there are two skiffs. One serving the divers and one serving the cameras and two extra camera crew loading the film for the 35 mm film camera. All this might sounds ok, but with 6 ft and current and wind as the 1 of may. It can get quiet of a hassle and hard work. We never come back to the Nautilus Explorer to eat lunch. Our hostesses Ashley and Silvia and Chef Enrique serves us with food packages that we take aboard the skiffs.

We work just with ambient light so we try to squeeze out of it as much as we can. It is also not all the mantas that are so cooperative, so of what I counted about 6 days in the water an average of 8 hrs non stop a day and a lot of swimming!! I got around 20- 25 individuals of them. there where 3 that where extremly curious . One small female chevron manta visited us 5 days of 6 and a big black female Obama visitided us 3 days in a row. An other 5 that approaches us repetedly and the rest stayed circuling us on a bit of a distance.

Other things that you see while sittiing 7-10 hr in the water around the boiler was many big Wahoos, and Yellow fin Tunas. Two mobulas that I cant say wich kind. While diving. 1 Tiger shark, a few galapagos sharks and silky sharks and white tip sharks. A big group of big eyed jack is always somewhere close to the rock. And I think we heared the last humpback songs for this year! They have almost all gone now.

It has been a fun week, the filmteam are happy of the images that they got and it was a brake in the routine for us as crew. Also to spend so much time at one site is interessting. I named a cortes chub with one yellow dot on its head for smudgy, as it was seen every day all the time…

A few of us actually even a bit exhausted went for a last dive before dinner at the canyon and we got a beautiful dive with a few hammerhead sharks getting in close on the cleaning station. Good way to finish the week.

Dive guide Sten
Surface conditions: 1 may windy and very choppy and lot of clouds and current on top of that. 2 may much calmer, sunny temp 26-27 C

Underwater conditions: May 1 current and some big breakers on the boiler. may 2 sunny weak current ok surge both days 25-26 C ca 76 F Viz good ca 100ft

Photos by Sten Johansson

The baby dolphins is almost full size now and it seems like the mother is pregnant again – San Benedicto Island, Socorro – divemaster log – May 1, 2010

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

So up to the boiler at San Benedicto again for the 3 day. This morning when we where checking out the boiler we got saluded by a school of bottle nose dolphins. They stayed around for quite a while. One is a mother and baby I ve seemn for 3 years and the baby is almost full size now and it seems like the mother is pregnant again. The dolphins were swishing by and turning around us and after a while the calmed down but where staying close but deep trying to call us down to the deep. As we are looking for mantas we stayed shallow to save air and bottom time. First just two chevron giant mantas passed. The came the same chevron female manta that we have filmed for two days and to day she stayed the who;e day again, each time we drifted off the boiler she got tired and disapeared , when we went back to the rock, it did not take long time until she was back again, over and over again.  In total we spotted 7-8 individual mantas today, but noone as friendly and curiouse as this girl.  Most has been females. only 1 male today.
Me and mate \Sandy where down to rerig Dr Bob Rubins transiver that got the float broken. It was set on 130 ft. While we worked on it we spotted a hammerhead shark. So on our ascent we went that direction. We wispered in the sharks and Oboj! It was sucsess full!! We got 5 silky sharks around us , very friesky and came charging at us in full speeed that we blocked them with our fins and camera. A medium size galapago shark came in and the two big guys, A bit intimidating, And on top of us a hammerhead shark where cirkiling around us. Not a bad dive just for resetting a receiver!! Nice to see there are sharks out there. I think that it was a evening dive helped. And there are a lot of yellow fin tunas and big and several wahoos out there as well.

Surface conditions: 27-28 C bit windy cloud and sunpoy but not bad for diving and small swell.

Underwater conditions: 25-26 C. Good viz 70-110ft. Very little surge and a bit of current

Dive guide  Sten

Obama followed us today! The giant manta that is!!! The Boiler dive site, San Benedicto Island. Socorro. Dive guide log – April 30/10.

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

So back to the Boiler again! Today it was a bit windy and current was quite strong for being the boiler. But soon we had giant mantas again. Today a chevron male manta turned up first and followed by a huge Chevron female that was very curious and stayed a big part of the day. But our manta that followed us today was a black manta called Obama, though it is a she.

I’ve seen her several times before and she has a funny behaviour. She comes in close to you and just when you think she almost will hit you she makes a loop and lays with her beautiful anchor patterned belly letting the light catch it and very photogenic so to say. She followed us for long time today over and over. We stopped filming early today cause the light was a bit poor cause of clouds so we went for a fun dive at the canyon. At a moment we saw just a couple of silver tip sharks and then for a sudden a wall of hammerheads. We went hiding by the rocks , but they never came back.

Surface conditions: Windy and choppy and cloudy. temp 25 C

Underwater conditions: 25 C , 75 F Good viz ca 70-100ft. Current , not much of surge.

Dive guide Sten

According to the size of the uterus, these sharks are ready to give birth + unbelievable humpback whale behavior around divers. April 24, 2010. Guest log.

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

My God!! Easily one of the best whale encounters of my life. A mother and calf humpback playing and relaxing around our ship, approaching snorklers for over an hour. At one point, the calf approached me to within a meter or two to look me directly in the eye. An amazing experience!!!!     Scott Davis

Today we started the shark tagging program in Mexican waters! One receiver was set on the west side of Roca Partida at 127 ft. The location is excellent and a shark cleaning station is very near from it. After we set it we saw three scalloped hammerheads 50 ft north of it. The sharks species seen during these dives were: scalloped hammerhead (Sphyrna lewini), Silver tip (Carcharhinus albimarginatus), Silky (C. falciformis), Galapagos (C. galapaguensis) and White tip reef (Triaenodon obesus). All the different individuals from these species were adults and in the case of the white tips two pregnant females were seen on the middle of the island at 50 ft. According to the size of the uterus and the behavior of the females (occasional movements out of their caves) they were ready to give birth. By 11:15 am we saw a humpback whale with her calf. They spend more than two hours very close to the Nautilus Explorer making the day unbelievable. The calf made several excursion to the surface in front of the divers and a few full body breaches were seen by free divers just in front of them. Several jacks (big eye trevally) were seen close to the surface traveling in pairs (female silvery and male dark) because they are on the reproductive period. A very nice day for science at the rock! Dr. Mauricio Hoyos

Another busy day. It started with last minute preparations for the deep dive at Roca Partida. Camera batteries and chip, programming the Sonde, Final prepping of the rebreather, readjusting my weighting for an additional layer of wetsuit for the colder water here at Roca Partida.  I am always ambivalent about deep diving here. The bottom is beautiful, and lush. It is mixed sand and rock topography, fairly flat at 255 feet deep. It has many animals absent from Clipperton, and uncommon in the rest of the Revillagigedo Islands, like gorgonian coral and basket stars. I enjoy the fauna and vista. The downside is it is colder, always very rough with up and down motions that make it impossible to hold a steady depth, and usually has a strong current running. All of this makes decompression not only difficult, but more dangerous than calmer water.

My goal for this dive was to shoot photographs to document the bottom for a paper being worked on by Gordon Handler at the LA Natural History Museum. I also carried the Sonde to collect water chemistry data.  The descent was uneventful, except I could not get the strobe tied to the anchor. It is a bright flashing light that I was going to use to help me find the anchor at the end of the dive so I could go back up the anchor line. The problem was that even at 250 feet deep the chain was moving up and down so much I could not thread a tie wrap (zip tie) to secure the strobe. After a few minutes of trying I gave up and continued the dive without the safety strobe.

While attempting to affix the strobe, my camera dome port hit the moving anchor chain, and was severely scuffed. This put a blurry place in all of my photographs, where it obscured the lens. That is about a $700 fix. Ouch!

I was somewhat narced on the dive, as I did not have enough helium in my supply cylinder. (“Narced” refers to narcosis, the feeling of being drunk from the nitrogen in the breathing mix at depth.) This made it more difficult to focus on my objectives and to make observations. In fact, when I looked at my photographs after the dive, I saw star fish in almost every picture that I did not see during the actual dive.

The ascent and decompression were as awful as I anticipated. I tried to stay at least ten feet below where I was supposed to be so as not to violate my decompression ceiling (that’s REALLY bad), but even with that the waves would occasionally kick me too shallow. It required a lot of focus and effort to maintain proper depth.

During one of the few lulls of relatively calm water, while I was 45 feet deep and minding my own business, I looked away from my depth gauge and my oxygen display and glanced about. I turned around, and noticed that someone had put a big mural of two humpback whales behind me. “That’s odd,” I thought. “WAIT!!! THERE ARE TWO HUMPBACK WHALES STARING AT ME!” They were less than ten feet from me, a momma and a calf, just hanging right in front of me, not moving at all. I started fumbling for my camera, which was hanging on a line from my rebreather harness. I quickly turned it on and took a few pictures.

Just so you know, this is NOT a common event. I have seen humpback whales out here before, once, but to get pictures of them I had to snorkel for nearly five hours, and I only got to glimpse them for maybe two minutes of that time. These two were just hanging there, staring at me! I hurriedly snapped off about 40 pictures before they swam off.

Needless to say, from this point of the decompression on, I was more attentive to my surroundings. Usually I just kind of zone out, letting my subconscious attend to depth, time and air. Not today. The humpback whales returned two more times, and I actually managed to grab a few decent pictures. It certainly helped make an activity that is usually as boring as watching paint dry far more entertaining! The crowd on the boat was also entertained. They had all been snorkeling and watching the whales from the surface. They said that the whales had been sitting right behind me for several minutes before I noticed them. They could tell the instant I saw them, because I gave a violent start. A moment or two later I started grabbing for my camera. They all thought it was very funny!

This dive was a little over four hours long. I sat out for an hour, and put new carbon dioxide absorbent in my rebreather. I then went back down with the group. The whales had gone, so we dove along the sides of the rock. I took pictures of white tip sharks, Clarion angelfish, and a pair of mating octopi. I surfaced after an hour and was ferried back to the boat.

We packed up, and left for San Benedicto Island. A night crossing to shorten the trip back to Cabo San Lucas.

April 23-24, 2010:  From Nicole

I did 4 dives today at San Benedicto; a place called the Canyons.  It was fantastic.  The wind was up a bit, and as the gusts blew across the water, they would sweep across the stark volcanic island and clouds of volcanic ash (from the 1954 eruption) would spill out in a plume and land on the water – and on the boat, in our eyes, in our teeth, and on our dive gear.  It was surreal, and sometimes dropped the visibility in the water.  It would go from being a deep clear blue to looking like someone had spilled flour in it.

I saw a few big hammerhead sharks.  They were a bit deeper than I was willing to go (I did not have a rebreather or mixed gas), so I descended to about 110 feet for a very short time and saw them just below me.  It was pretty cool.  They are such strange creatures with their giant hammer head shaped head with eyes way out on the ends.  These are scalloped hammerheads.

Then I turned my focus to all the amazing fish and the invertebrates.  Apparently, only about 50 feet away, 5 huge manta rays visited the other divers and came very close.  The mantas here are known for that behavior.  I had to settle for catching a glimpse of them from the surface.  But for me, coming here is way more than seeing mantas, so I was thrilled with my dives!

I am tired, pleased, and exhilarated.     Jeff B.

Photos courtesy of Jeff Bozanic, Scott Davis and Captain Gordon Kipp

Impressions of 6 action packed dive days at Clipperton Island – it doesn’t get any more off the beaten track than this expedition. April 25, 2010. Diveguide log

Monday, April 26th, 2010

Our arrival was impressive we just got in to a massive bait ball with thousands of boobies falling like a massive waterfall pounding in to the water. Dolphins every where and down under must have been tunas and sharks. The bait ball moved fast in a 2-3 knots in speed. When we decided to try to take snorkelers in to the inflatables it stopped and it was over.

During our remaining days we never spotted a bait ball like that size again. In 2007 I remeber we had a bait ball as well but smaller, it also stopped before we got out , jumping in to the water all we spotted was a couple of silkie sharks.

The topography that we seen around the atoll is pretty the same Very deep approaching the island slooping sand that turns to a coral reef at the depth at 130- 180 ft with a steep slope (Some areas less then others) up to where there is a plateau that starts at 50-60 ft and slowly comes up to ca 25 ft and then the barriar reef that surrounds the island almost completely that makes it very hard for an landing on the island.

We have not spotted any real pinnacles sea mounts and solo boulders. The reef is quiet uniform in its shape and the reef building corals there are only detected 8 different species maybe 10. The coral reef is very healthy , no real signs of coral bleaching. In bedded in the coral there are traces of long lines all over. We did not see many new once. If that is a good new that long lining is getting less or is it bad that it is to much effort and to little sharks for getting out here?

Critters
There is a difference between the windy wavy side (the north) and the leward side (South) We had probably the most and best diving on the north side. Seems to be more sharks and a bit more of the pelagic animals.

Sharks
Though of what I could  hear a saw my self the hammerhead sharks, the biggest group where seen on the south side of the island. All the hammerheads that we saw were fully grown up big scalloped hammerheads. In three occasions we spotted big groups of silkie sharks. In one moment “whispering in sharks” We had easily 50 silkie sharks cirkiling us, they dissapeared as fast as they appeared! 1 Really exiting and a bit intimidating!. The silkies where not of the size that we see in Revillagigedo Islands. Still think we saw adults and also pregnant females.

Juvenile silvertip shark where everywhere and very curiouse as well sometimes laying in the blue we had up to 20 silvertip around us! We wonder where the grown up once where and the last dive of the trip we got to learn to meet the mother of them all small guys!!  She came in close and really nice and stayed with us for a while. Juvenile galapagos and we have spotted one shark that even our shark expert Mauricio cant identify. We see this species of shark in 3 different locations in two days , but always on the north side. Its  eyes where like a soup shark but the fins where different, the anal fin was huge.We will try to find out.

One diver John saw a big shark that had stripes ..so we think he met a Tiger shark.
A few white tip sharks came by as well. So we had Silkie, silvertip, galapagos, white tip, Tiger and maybe an other species we are not sure of.

Moray eals. We got the finespotted moray eals (starry muray some people calls them) that dominates, yellow edge muray also where among the finespotted murays Their behaviour of both of the species where very bold we actually had our dear repeater guest and filmer Harry got bitten in his hand and we had our other dear repeater guest and Doctor David (David Long fin) stitching harry up under educational instructions of a crew hungry of learning how…

We never saw an octupus and I think this would be a hell to live for an octupus with that many muray eals. This eals are known to get up in the tidal pools and grabbing the red land crabs on the island on land and crwl down back with the crab in the water.

Other species. Lots of leather bass. We saw Wahoos, yellow fin tunas and big guys. This trip we did not se either mantas or whale shark that we did in 2007.

I don’t think the amound of species are that many. I would guess about the same as revillagigedos and what I could see two endemic fish one is the Clipperton Angel fish . beautiful blue angelfish with a neon blue stripe on its fin and a white spot on each side. And a kind of white tail damsell fish I never seen before called Balwins Mayor this two are endemic for the island. There are other species that exist in other areas , but the coloration, and sizes and behaviour are different. Like the mexican Hog fish in Clipperton is very shy when it is even biting us sometimes in Revillagigedo islands and is very curious. Nicole has made a taxonomy and are up to about 60 species for now, we can probably get up to about a 100. Wich is not a lot and a bit typical for the islands on this side of the pacific.

Turtles.
We did see last trip a green turtle , none this trip.

Mammals. There are a lot of Bottlenose dolphins around the islands. It was easy to get in to snorkel with them. No whales what we could see. On our trip in between we came in to a pod of the smaller spotted dolphin.

Dive conditions. The current acted a bit funny in its directions, as being a round island, we got in split currents , meand that at one time the current moves one direction , then a bit further it goes 180 degrees on the other direction. Also seems like the current is more decided by oceanic current more then the tidal one. We never had real hard dive conditions. A bit of surge on the shallow and of course bigger waves on the north side. But the diving is not as demanding as our normal dives in Revillagigedo islands.

And warm!!! shorts and tshirt or a shorty. 28-29 C.

Surface conditions. We had mostly calm seas a swell at 5-6 ft at north side . Most was 8-10 ft first day. Mostly sunny and just a few drops of water. 2007 we had more rain. Normally more wind in the afternoon. Hot! 35 C and very humid.

There are more to tell. But I think our diving was more interessting this trip and also that we where not having as high expectations as last trip where we would see thousands of sharks and find a new under water Eden. But with open eyes and mind take in what we see and we had more action this time, learning from our last trip and this time we even documented more our dives and GPS ed them and add that in to our knowlwdge of Clipperton. We had some really beautiful and exiting dives during this 6 days! This was my 2nd trip to Clipperton. If I want to go again? Absolutely!! I love this trip exploring and have the privilege to go where very few people ever been and  dive it!

On our way to Roca partida.

Dive guide Sten

Shark photo taken by Jeff Bozanic.  All other photos by Scott Davis.

Hammerhead shark field report – big jump for shark research project conducted onboard the Nautilus Explorer on the Clipperton Island expedition – Guest blog – April 23, 2010

Saturday, April 24th, 2010

We are coming back from Clipperton island by now. This was a small step for our project but a big jump for shark research. We set three different underwater receivers located to the NE, south and NW of Clipperton. In previous years we have tagged several species of sharks in different island from the Pacific. My colleague James Ketchum has tagged scalloped hammerheads and galapagos sharks in Galapagos, Cocos and Malphelo. They have found connectivity between this three islands of the Pacific but the puzzle its bigger than that. We have the theory that long migration species such these follow a “migration corridor” in the Tropical Pacific from these islands on the south as north as Baja California including The Sea of Cortez. Because of this, we have started a project covering all the Mexican Pacific islands. Clipperton (previously Mexican) was the most ambitious project that we included on the project. Thanks to the support of the Nautilus Explorer we started with a great success. All the crew from the boat was very supportive with our research and without the help of every person on the crew this endeavor would have been impossible. The shark population looks better than on the last trip of the Nautilus Explorer on 2007. In that trip the sharks were not seen often and they thought that it was because of the illegal fisheries. We could witness in all the diving sites long lines on the bottom that are used to target sharks. Fortunately we saw several sharks in almost every dive including the following species: Carcharhinus albimarginatus (silvertip), C. falciformis (silky), C. galapaguensis (galapagos), Sphryrna lewini (scalloped hammerhead), triaenodon obesus (white tip reef) and one that by now is unidentified. We have pictures and footage of one shark that looks like a requiem shark (Genus Carcharhinus) but with two conspicuous characteristics that do not match with the species recorded for this island: its anal fin its almost as big as the second dorsal fin and its eyes are maybe three times bigger than the eyes of most carcharhinids. I am going to send this pictures to Dr. Jose Castro and Dr. Leonard Compagno (both shark identification specialists) in order to identify this weird looking species. Maybe we will have a new species named Carcharhinus nautiliensis!

Dr. Mauricio Hoyos (responsible on the field of the project: Clipperton and Revillagigedo shark tagging program)

Some really BIG sharks at Clipperton Island, discovery of an anchor from a spanish galleion, a moray eel attack and a fishing accident – Guest log – April 21, 2010

Thursday, April 22nd, 2010

The fishing accident: A weird thing happened this evening.  Another boat showed up way out here.  Two people.  Fishing I guess, although when we asked them about their visit here, they couldn’t seem to explain it.  They came to our boat in a small zodiac off their bigger boat.  As they got closer I could see one of them holding his hand up.  Even closer I could see lots of blood.  Then I saw a HUGE hook, imbedded all the way in his wrist.  It was one of those jumbo tuna fishing hooks.  For as bad as the thing looked, he was taking it in stride, even smiling as he approached our boat –though I’m sure he was in LOTS of pain.  Luckily we have two nurses and a doctor on board!  Their lucky day.  The doc took care of his impressive wound, removed the hook with huge metal cutters, and disinfected it.  As a thank you, they left us a 120 pound yellow fin tuna!  Then they drove off into the sunset.  It was bizarre.

My goal today was to get my last two benthic (coral/algae) surveys and the last three Rainbow chub (a fish) we needed for DNA work.  They are tough to get!!!  Scott took the spear first.  The site was beautiful – so many fish, and SO SO much coral.  I couldn’t wait to see the results of the data to see if there really was as much coral as it seemed.  The reefs here appear very healthy.  Scott hung out looking for the rainbow chub while I payed out my 50 meter tape.  These transects are exhausting!!  Every 10 centimeters, I put my finger on the tape and take it to the bottom, and record what is right under my finger.  I have to do that about 500 times for just ONE transect!!  You see why two of them per site is already a lot.  For the fish transects I swim 50 meters, and count fish all the way to the surface (I am at about 45 feet), and out to 2.5 meters on each side of me.  So the box‚ I count in is about 15 meters high, 5 meters wide and 50 meters wide, a big area!  I have to count ALL the fish I see.  I swim once to count the fish swimming above and around me, and I swim back a second time to count all the little fish that are in and on the coral bottom.  I generally counted around 500 fish on each dive!!

While I was working, I would occasionally catch a glimpse of Scott  still hanging out waiting for the Rainbow chub!  Where are they?  I could tell he must be getting frustrated.  A hunter with no prey!!  Suddenly he and I saw the Rainbow chub at the same time.  I was working so I turned back to my transect feeling good that he finally had something to do!  When I finished my transect I looked up to see that he had one fish.  Yeah!! We only need 2 more!  I also saw some good sized silver tip sharks at that time (less problem with the Morays since Scott was hunting higher up in the water column).  Suddenly, more chub.  Scott drew the rubber on his spear taught, aimed – fire!  GOT IT!  But wait, that fish wiggled so hard it got off the spear.  It was bleeding a lot, and headed straight down for the bottom.  Like a flash of lightening, the slowly circling sharks bolted into action.  One of them shot so fast to the bottom after that fish I could hardly tell what it was.  I have NEVER seen a shark swim that fast.  Then another, then a third shark.  Then a Trevally Jack shot out of the blue. Now I know what they mean by a feeding frenzy.  They truly changed to predatory bullets.  That poor fish never had a chance.  It would be torn to pieces by frenzied predators.

Meanwhile, back on the boat  plenty of excitement.  Harry got bit really badly by a Moray eel.  Doctor Dave got out his doctors kit and went to work.  6 stiches total! Captain Gordon named the reef Harry’s Moray in honor of his injury.

Also, we were discovering that people had seen some decent sized sharks – some big ones really.  And not only were they big, but curious too – not something you want from a big shark.  One group of divers saw a school of about 10 BIG hammerhead sharks down at about 120 feet.  Others said they had seen some big silvertips, not the smaller pups‚ we had been seeing.  I checked in on Harry, noted the shark stories and jumped on the Zodiac.

So we still need two more rainbow chub.  We have ONE MORE dive to finish.  I managed to get all my transects done so decided to take my last dive as a fun exploratory dive where I didn’t have to work the whole time.  I even took my camera! I told Scott: no big deal if we don’t get any more chub.  We had three (our goal was 5).  He looked at me funny and said I plan to get it all done, no almost for me.  He grabbed a spear and headed for the boat.  My competitive nature took over, and I grabbed the other spear just in case.  The problem was, and I didn’t really think through this, we only had one bag to put the fish into, and Scott took it.

I decided to spend a bunch of time shallow on this dive to see if I could find some blennies and other fish I haven’t seen much of.  I swam to about 20 feet of water and saw a really big thing stick up out of the reef towards the surface.  As I swam closer, I saw an anchor!!! A REALLY old anchor, left there by a ship many many years ago. It was a giant iron anchor  - the type the Spanish galleons used to use.  It was super cool  and I swam around it and took some pictures.  (*  note from Captain Mike  - Clipperton Island is named after the English pirate, John Clipperton, who based his ship here for attacks on “Manila galleons” that had left Aculpulco and tracked south to pick up the tradewinds for their voyage across the pacific ocean.   Interestingly, the lagoon was still open in those days and he was able to anchor inside.   The lagoon is entirely surrounded by the atoll now.   We can only speculate that Clipperton must have attacked a spanish galleon and sailed it back to the atoll to strip it of riches *).

As I neared the drop-off, I saw a shape.  I continued and looked more closely.  There it was again.  It was pretty big.  Definitely swimming.  Now it’s approaching me. Wow!!  It’s pretty big!  It’s a silver tip shark!  Finally one that is the size that Clipperton used to be famous for its big sharks.   I was so excited to see such a beautiful animal. It was so beautiful.  To see a large shark move through the water is to see power, grace, and beauty.  It’s mesmerizing really.  I watched for what seemed like a long time.  I came out of my trance to realize this animal can also be dangerous, and Scott was somewhere nearby spearfishing  to say nothing of my own goal to get one elusive hard-to-get Rainbow chub.  If you read about silver tip sharks in the book it says “can be dangerous in the vicinity of spearfishing”.  I’m thinking of the poor Doctor Dave – he already had to deal with the imbedded nasty fish hook on the wayward fisherman, then Harry‚s moray bite – he doesn’t need a shark incident!

Nicole

Today I sat out the first dive, as I wanted more time to do a final deeper dive to photograph the rhodolith bed. I also wanted a few more Clipperton angels for the aquarium, so Harry offered to collect them for me. About 20 minutes later, as I was preparing the rebreather, one of the Zodiacs came screaming up to the back of the mother ship. “Help! I need a doctor! Get Elaine!” Harry then rolled out of the Zodiac and onto the ship’s deck. He was clutching one hand in the other, with blood dripping from between his fingers.

I immediately sprinted for more people to help, and returned to Harry. “What happened?”

I was just beginning to work at collecting fish when this gigantic eel came up and bit me!

I briefly examined the wound, and then went to secure his dive gear as better trained people took over assisting Harry. His hand was wounded in two places, each bite requiring three stitches too close it. David did the repairs, after the site had been numbed with Lidocaine, a locally applied anesthetic.

I went back to my original dive plan, and was dropped off at the GPS location where the ship had been anchored the day I originally found the rhodoliths. I dropped down on the oyster bed in 150 feet of water, and swam out to 200 feet. I did not find the rhodoliths. I did, however, immediately find two white tip sharks, which stayed to keep me company the entire dive. Nothing like having a few curious sharks circling you for two hours after having a team member bitten by an eel to improve your sense of peacefulness and well-being!

Despite my uneasiness, I continued the dive and collected a couple of different species of oysters I had not previously collected. I also took photographs and collected cone shells, a few echinoderms, and some coral rubble samples covered with live coralline algae that may be proto-rhodoliths. During my decompression, which I did in mid-water hanging from a lift bag held by a string, I was circled by the same two sharks. They generally kept their distance from me, but every few minutes one or the other would suddenly charge up to within 10-20 feet of me, before suddenly turning tail and swimming away again. Not much I could do about it though, as I still had to complete almost two hours of decompression before it would be safe for me to return to the surface.

After an hour or so a pod of 15 dolphins showed up. I thought that they would scare the sharks away, but no such luck. The dolphins swam by me once, and then swam off again. Too bad, I much preferred their company!

Finally completed my decompression and gladly returned to the surface.

I sat out the third dive to allow some of the nitrogen and nitrogen dissolved in my body to off-gas. Then I suited up for the final dive. I decided not to press my luck, and opted not to collect fish. Instead, I took my camera and shot more photographs. I found a very large gill net, draped across the reef. The shallowest parts were 40 feet deep. The net itself spread from about 70 feet down to 190 feet deep on the reef, and extended for hundreds of feet along the reef. It had been there so long that the corals were growing over and engulfing the net.

The environmental problem with abandoned nets like this one is that they do not stop catching fish for a very long time. Even now, this net is spread out and open. Fish still get caught in it, and die. Then birds come down to eat the struggling fish, and they themselves get caught and drown. Marine mammals like dolphins are ensnared and die. So are sea turtles. In California, a single abandoned drift net had the carcasses of 43 sea lions! These nets are called ghost nets, as even though they are lost to the fishermen who deploy them, they continue their deadly function of trapping and killing marine life.

People who enjoy eating seafood may not recognize just what the overhead is for the fish they consume. It has been estimated that for some types of seafood the byproduct catch (the unwanted fish caught accidentally and disposed of) is ten times what the actual catch is that is brought to market. This is one of the reasons I do not eat seafood.

Fishing procedures are also getting more and more efficient. A century ago, for example, a tuna fisherman would have to scour the oceans, looking for signs of tuna. They would watch the weather, the seasons, the currents, the local water temperature, and try to predict where they could find the fish. They guessed where to go, based on very limited local data. They caught fish, but missed more than they found.

Now tuna fleets utilize regional and global temperature and current models built by scientists and published on the Internet by universities and marine laboratories to find the schools of fish. They use helicopters to spot the clouds of birds that trail the schools of baitfish upon which the tuna feed. This greatly increases their range and efficacy in locating tuna schools. In fact, we saw a tuna helicopter cruise by Clipperton several times yesterday afternoon. They use real time satellite data published by NASA to determine exact sea surface temperatures, another clue in where to look for tuna. The net result? The tuna fleets are getter better and better at finding and decimating the existing tuna resources. The quantity of fish being landed is still increasing. Fishermen cite this data to show that the fishery is still healthy.

However, I (and many other scientists who study fish populations) do not believe this to be true. The fishery cannot sustain the current fishing activity level. We expect a catastrophic decline that will eventually cause the complete failure of the fishery, as what happened with sardines and anchovy off the California coast in the 1950s. If we are to prevent this problem, the time to act is now, before it is too late.

Finally, it was time to surface. We all returned to the Explorer, and packed out dive gear. They loaded the skiffs, and with the sunset behind us we left Clipperton. We still have work to do there, but unfortunately no more time. That is generally the case with science. Evan as we work to answer questions, we find ourselves asking new ones raised by the data we have collected. As the saying goes, “There are no such things as completed projects, only deadlines!” We had reached our deadline. It was time to leave.

Jeff

Some morays cooperate in hunting and others appear to be bitter enemies + large schools of silky and hammerhead sharks – Clipperton Atoll – Guest blog – 20 APR 2010

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

The diving here at Clipperton Island is great.  The reefs are full of fish and healthy coral.  The fine-spotted moray eels (Gymnothorax dovii) are amazing.   They swim free.  Some seem to cooperate in hunting and others are bitter enemies and battle for territory.  They show no fear and will attack.  I have had to push them away with my camera or hit them with my fist to avoid being bitten.  The sharks I have seen have all been small.  Many small silvertip sharks and a Galapagos today.  Today near four palms I found a large antique anchor.  The coral had grown around it.  From the construction I suspect it was from the early 1800s.  Shooting macro at many sites is difficult because of the surge and currents.  The currents can come up at any time, and seem to switch direction at random.  There seems top be no relation to the tides.  I am glad I came back to Clipperton Island, I have never seen anything like this place.

Having been to other remote atolls, Clipperton Island far exceeded my expectations in regards to coral abundance, the amount of reef fish, and overall beauty of the reef. What a pleasure it was to simply slip on a t-shirt and shorts, strap on a tank and hop in the bath like water. Going to a place as remote and relatively untouched as Clipperton would have felt more expedition like had it not been for the uber luxury standards of the Nautilus. Simply stated, an amazing trip with an amazing crew, and a great mix of passengers.
Scott

Clipperton Atoll….What an AMAZING adventure!!!!!!  From the schools of hammerhead sharks, to the tuna, silvertips, eels by the thousands….what an AWESOME part of the planet!!!! Doc Dave was able to perform surgery and save the day on two occasions as well as enjoy pelagic diving with fifty….read that again…FIFTY silky sharks that were a bit interested in altering his persuasion?! Thanks Sten!!!!!! The Nautilus Explorer and it’s crew have been OUTSTANDING….. food has been beyond belief and the service makes you want to come back aboard in the future for more of the same!  You can’t see things in the underwater world if you’re topside. The Nautilus Explorer and the crew make sure that the dives are not limited necessarily by the clock.  Spectacular diving can’t be limited based on a pre-determined dive time. Freedom to dive you own profile is another hallmark of Nautilus Explorer diving and this sets apart the Nautilus Explorer from most every other liveabaord. Now on to Roca Partida and more GREAT DIVING (hopefully no need for any more surgery)!!!!!  David

Different.  Dive where you will, but you have not seen this.  Moray eels at night?  No. Free swimming throughout the day.  One? Two? Five? Twenty-five? Fifty?  They keep coming! Stay back!  They move with purpose!  Juvenile Silver tip sharks (2-3′) on most dives for the last six days, and momma today! Some silkies today(not like two days ago when the paraded in from the blue).  Saw a 10′ tiger shark the third day (only picture is in my memory)identified by the flick of a large striped tail as it moved into them blue. The Clipperton Angels, Leather Bass, Surgeons, etc…..  all numerous  on every dive, fearless, and easily photographed. The Nautilus Explorer crew is outstanding!  On the boat, in the water, service is the objective.  Dives were exploratory, but well managed and timed with everyone allowed to dive to their own capacity and taste.  Onboard, no want goes un satisfied.  Now north to Roca Partida, happy there is more diving ahead!!  John B.

After over a week of diving all around Clipperton, I’ve come to the conclusion that the windward side of the atoll is definitely better for diving.  We’ve had more sharks, more eels, and generally more varieties of fish on the windward side than the lee. Couple that with surprisingly less surge and current, and you get some really fantastic dives.  Today, on our post-lunch dive, I decided when I jumped in that I would do a quick, deep dive towards the bottom portion of the reef, where the colorful coral peters out to white rubble.  There’s been a persistent thermocline down in the 170 foot range all around the island, and I wanted to see some of the life that preferred colder waters.  As I came back up to around 130 feet, I fell in behind a group of other divers from the boat, who were joined by a solitary big eye jack that decided he wanted to be part of the fun.  As the rest of the group bubbled across the reef, this lone jack dutifully tagged along behind the group all the way up until they made their safety stops in the shallows and climbed back into the zodiac.  If he could have, I’m he would’ve probably climbed into the boat with them and ridden back to the Nautilus.  The behavior of the wildlife out here at Clipperton is completely different almost anything I’ve ever seen before – from this lone jack to the bizarrely aggressive eels, it’s been a fascinating week of true expedition exploration.
Cameron E.

The start of our annual expedition to Clipperton Island with an enroute stop at Socorro plus some trip pic’s. k- April 12, 2010

Monday, April 12th, 2010

On the Nautilus Explorer we love adventure.  We cater to experienced scuba divers looking for challenging diving.  Folks who share our passion for adventure, venturing off the beaten track, diving with big animals and exploring new areas. Sounds like a tall order huh!!   But that’s how we got  started diving in northern B.C. and Alaska  -  nobody had ever tried to run a dive boat there but even after 10 years of Alaska operations, we are still continuously discovering new dive sites, new species of animals and pushing the envelope diving cool situations such as icebergs, large numbers of giant stellar sealions or  fields of millions of moon jellies.  Just wait until we start operations into the Aleutian Islands.  At the other end of the “water temperature” spectrum, we have been exploring the outer coast of Baja California, Mexico and venturing further south to places like the remote coral atoll of Clipperton Island.  Heck, very few people have ever stepped foot onto Clipperton and we are the first and only dive boat loco enough to stage trips out there.   The adventure continues and the Nautilus has just departed Cabo San Lucas for our second ever trip to Clipperton.  Stay tuned for lots of logs and blogs over the next 2 weeks.   Cheers for now and hope you can join us soon.  Captain Mike.
————————————————————————————————
Also know as Isle of Passion, the French atoll Clipperton Atoll is our main destination for this 15 day expedition. After leaving Cabo San Lucas, Mexico we enjoyed another great transit south with calm seas all the way to San Benedicto, Socorro Islands, where we stopped for two dives at the Boiler. We had a great show from numerous bottle-nose dolphins for the last two hours of transit time approaching San Benedicto, with the dolphins repeatedly leaping as high as 8-10 ft out of the water near our bow as we approached the island. Not normally a check-out dive location, with the favorable conditions on arrival we opted to head straight for the Boiler which has traditionally been one of our best Giant Manta Ray sites. Unfortunately the diving has been slow here for the last month, with only occasional manta sightings and sporadic interaction. The first 4 months of this year’s Socorro season was sizzling hot with animal sightings and interaction but we have been in a lull for the last month.  At least things seem to be on the uptick again. Visibility was low today at around 30 ft, water temp quite nice at 75-76F (24-25C). Big animal life again was a little slow, with one Giant Manta spotted cruising by, a couple hammerhead sharks and a few white-tipped reef sharks. After our two dives we again headed south, stopping at the Socorro navy base for our mandatory inspection, before setting out for the voyage to Clipperton Atoll.  Clipperton has an extremely rich and amazing history, way too much for me to go into right now. It is home to over 5 million land crabs, a half a million booby birds, and a huge moray population that has evolved the ability to emerge from the water to hunt the beach for the abundant land crabs. For us this week, it offers the opportunity to explore an island that is one of the most remote and least visited in the world. Certainly one of the least dived on as well. We are also supporting several scientific endeavors during the trip including shark tagging and placement of radio receivers to track the movement of Hammerhead sharks and Giant Manta Rays. The recent grounding of a maltese chemical tanker on the barrier reef at Clipperton will also give us the opportunity to examine the damage done to the reef by that incident.  ETA for Clipperton is the morning of the 14th and we are all looking forward to some great exploratory diving.
Lots more to come, check back soon for the latest updates!

Captain Gordon Kipp

Diving conditions at San Benedicto: Viz 30-40 ft, Water temp 75F (24C), current mild, moderate surge from the ground swell
Surface conditions: Sea height small to moderate with 13-15 sec. period (very comfortable!), air temp 75-82F (24-28C), mix of sun and clouds, high humidity

Pictures taken by Scott Davis.