Posts Tagged ‘Dillon Rock’

Guest Blog 29 June 2009

Monday, June 29th, 2009
Looking back at my circumnavigation of Vancouver Island May 23 – June 1, 2009
So it was about 4:30 pm on Saturday when we arrived on the dock in Steveston for our dive trip that would take us around Vancouver Island. Our trip had been a long time coming as we had to book the trip 2 years in advance. It would be the first time on the boat for the group from Kelowna but the second for the folks from Vernon. We unloaded our gear from the vehicles that we had traveled down to the coast in where it was marked with our names and room number on the boat. We headed on to the boat for our first look at where we would be diving, sleeping and eating for the next 7 days. First impression was that the boat was very nicely laid out and would be very comfortable for us in our coming travels. Sometime first impressions can fool you but not this time, every day there was something to impress with the thought and planning that had gone into the construction of this boat.

Our voyage began shortly after 6 pm. on May 23/09 We pulled away from the dock and out into the river. We headed out into the Strait of Georgia heading north toward the top of Vancouver Island. We quickly traded the views of the Vancouver skyline with all it’s traffic and people going someplace in a hurry for the calm of traveling on the water. We didn’t know it as we left but we were to be treated with calm waters like we were heading out into for the entire trip. Sometime after we left the dock we were treated to our first of many great meals on the trip. After dinner we were briefed on what to do in the event of an emergency while on the boat. We were all shown where our personal flotation device was stored in our cabins and then made to put it on at the muster station. After making sure everyone could put it on properly we went over what to do in the event of a fire onboard and what the crews capabilities were in the event of any kind of emergency. After that I headed out to find the spot on the boat where I could sit, relax and enjoy the peace and tranquility. It didn’t take too long to find and it was the perfect place to look out at what was going by as well as back at where you had come from. Mix in the occasional snooze and all was good. We traveled all night, moving through Seymour Narrows sometime around 6 am and continuing north through the morning and into the afternoon. The further north we traveled the fewer the boats, towns and homes on the water. Our first stop was off Telegraph Cove where we did two warm up dives. For some on the trip it was their first dives since last fall. For others it was their first dive in a week.

So now about the diving. I won’t bother trying to name all the dive sites as some of them had no name until we named them after being the first divers to dive them from the Nautilus. Our dives would start in the main living area of the cabin where our Captain, Mike Lever would give us a very detailed dive briefing. He would sketch the site on the board on the wall detailing the above and below water topography, depths, dive skiff location, currents, hazards as well as what and where to look for the resident inhabitants that they may have seen in previous trips. It was the first of what would be many briefings at many dive sites over the coming days. Our first briefing was a little longer as he went over what he expected from us as we traveled on the skiff too and from the dive sites as well as getting on and off the skiff. Safety was the top priority in all of his briefings both for us the customer as well as for himself and his crew. So our first dive would be on a small rock outcropping which they called Staircase. It got it’s name from the underwater topography on the side of the islet. It’s most interesting feature was the current. We dove on the lee side of the small island as the current was running past on both sides. The warning in the dive briefing was “DON’T GET OUT INTO THE CURRENT” as it will sweep you away. The interesting thing about diving there was that you could hear the sound of the water running as you got close to the current. As I indicated previous this was to be a warm up dive and I suspect the site was chosen as there isn’t a lot to run into and wreck so there wasn’t a lot to look at as a result. The crew is all about protecting the life at the sites for those that come after us. Dive number 2 was a short distance away at Walt’s Wall and we did that after a short interval back on the Nautilus. This site was a far better representation of the life that we would be seeing on the coming dives. There was a lot more life on the wall with all the accompanying colors that we are treated to in the waters on our own coast. So after our 2 warm up dives we proceeded further north with Browning Pass to be our next stop.

 Before I go on there is more to tell about the boat. It was designed and built in Vancouver British Columbia. I believe it was on the water in 2000. It was built specifically for liveaboard diving and was very well thought out long before construction started. I have no idea how many hours Mike put into the design of the boat but the time has got to be in the hundreds of hours. I suspect it was designed as he was taking traveling divers to the sites in BC waters on his original Nautilus boat back in the late 80′s/early 90′s. You can tell when you are talking to him about the boat it was a dream a long time in the making. Back when we first arrived on the boat after our first briefings about the boat and our upcoming voyage our first job was to set our dive gear up on the dive skiff. Now when people use the word skiff to describe a boat to me it brings up visions of a rowboat or something similar. Well this rowboat is 38. long with individual stations for each diver. When you arrive you set your gear up at your station and the only time it leaves during the trip is when you put it on to go for your next dive. The back half of the “skiff” is covered as the captain is on a covered upper deck where he can see all of what is going on around the boat as you travel as well as at the dive sites. He is in a perfect position to see divers as they surface whether it be close to the boat or some distance away. Tucked up under the cover that was over my station there was high pressure lines permanently installed with a fill whip coming down to each station. There was a high pressure quick coupler on the end of the line so they could simply hook a hose up to the compressor that is on the main boat and fill all the tanks at their stations. For those tanks forward on the skiff they had hoses with 4 whips at the end which they would string out from the big boat to complete the filling process on the balance of the tanks. When we were traveling the skiff was brought aboard the Nautilus using a winch and cable not unlike a boat trailer. When we arrived at our anchorage we would usually board the skiff for our first dive at the new site and they would do the “Hot Launch”. Once everyone was onboard they would feed the winch line out and the boat would slide down the back of the Nautilus and on to the water. Once down the ramp they would fire up the twin 225 Merc outboards and we would be off. If we were going to be staying in the area for more dives the skiff would be tied up across the stern of the Nautilus but if we were moving on the skiff would be winched back up on the lower deck of the Nautilus and we would get off the skiff after it was secured back in it’s dry dock area on the Nautilus.
 

Okay so back at Browning Wall our first dive was to be Hussar Point. I almost passed on the first dive as I had done the site on a previous trip and I had considered it pretty ho hum. We had done the site as we were looking to get in all the dives we could and it was one of the few in the pass that could be done off slack. On this dive I would be diving with a couple of friends that I had enjoyed diving Browning Pass on previous trips. We were dropped at the edge of a wall that we obviously didn’t see on my previous trip. The wall was full of the nooks and crannies that we have come expect diving in Browning Pass. There was lots of life on the wall itself and it turned out to be a very enjoyable dive. We arrived back on the surface to the excited story of a first time diver to the area. He had never seen an octopus before but had managed to find one on this dive that was enjoying his first meal of the day, a Puget sound king crab. Apparently it was sitting there contently munching on breakfast when they arrived on the scene toward the end of their dive. As they were helping him out of the water the crew was worried that there was something wrong with him. Turned out he was just so excited that he could hardly talk. We missed the octo but we did have a sea lion come and check us out while we were hanging out doing our safety stop. Dive #2 would be Seven Tree Island. It is a dive that I have enjoyed on previous trips to the area and it was nice to see that it is still in as good a shape as I remember it from my last dive there. The plan was to dive from the north end of the island moving with the current to the south. As we came to the canyon on the south end we crossed over to the inside of the island and into the sand flats and eventually arriving back at the north end doing our safety stop in the kelp. In the evening we did a night dive on a site that I don’t remember doing in past trips called Aquarium. We were treated to another fine meal at the end of another day of great diving. Tomorrow would bring a dive at the what is regularly described as the best cold water wall dive in the world, Browning Wall. I got up early and started my day watching a sail boat travel past us in the distance. Other than that small boat there was nobody around but the folks on the Nautilus. Around 7 am. the others started coming up to check out the day. Another big breakfast and then back to diving. Browning Wall was just as I remembered it, completely covered in life of all shapes and colors. Video was on the agenda for today and the plan included trying to get some video of the grunt sculpin that lives on a part of the wall that we had found on previous trips. A short time into the dive we came to the spot where we found the little guy still hiding in his usual haunt. He wasn’t interested in being filmed unfortunately and fled at the prospect. He managed to find a spot small enough that the video camera couldn’t get in to film so there will be no sculpin video from this trip. The weather has apparently improved to the north so we will be on the move to dive Dillon Rock in the afternoon. We are told that the site is famous for Wolf eels and octopus.

So now a little more about how the dives are organized. We arrive at the dive site complete with the knowledge of the site from our briefing. At the site the waters are checked for current and we would be anchored adjacent to the dive site. When it was decided that the current conditions were good we would be told how many minutes we had before we had to be back on the boat. The dives were usually no shorter than 50 minutes and generally no longer than 60 minutes. When the crew was satisfied that everything was in order we would be told “The pool is open” and we were off. There was always at least one dive master in the water to show anyone around that may have wanted a guided tour or to dive with anyone that didn’t have a buddy for whatever reason. The boat would remain at the anchor for some time before tying a float to the anchor line leaving the anchor in place for those odd times when you might be able to return to the anchor and ascend up the anchor line. As our dives came to an end we were to follow the topography up to the surface wherever possible. Once on the surface it was requested that we stay close to the shore so we wouldn’t get out into the channel and washed away by the currents. The skiff has a third outboard on it that is a jet drive and they use that for power when retrieving divers out of the water. The jet drive is nice as it will run in very shallow water and there is no prop to have to stay away from. Once everyone is back on the skiff the captain would call down from above asking if there were any special drink requests for the crew back at the Nautilus. When we arrived back the crew would be waiting with hot drinks, fresh made cookies and hot water to dip your hands in to warm up after the dive. A short walk up from the stern was a hot shower where you could rinse your suit off before getting out of it. A dryer was adjacent to the cabin door where you could throw your damp undergarments in to dry for the next dive.

 

I will finish this off with little more about the diving not because the diving wasn’t great but because this is getting way too long. After Dillon Rock we moved around the top end of the island overnight and arrived at Quatsino Inlet the next morning. This is the area that the sea otters were relocated after being hunted to extinction many years ago. They seem to be doing fine as they could be seen swimming around in the kelp a short distance from our anchorage. We attempted to dive with them but that is when we found out why they are described as shy. Put divers on a boat and take them out to dive with the sea otters and they simply disappeared until we were all back on the boat after our revised dive. On this side of the island pinnacles are the dive of choice. Most of the pinnacles came to within 15 feet of the surface and were easy to spot from the boat because of the plumes of water that would come up when the occasional wave hit them. The dives generally had little or no current but that was replaced by surge. The water on the outside of the island was described as glass calm which meant that we had 4-5 ft. swells at all times. Those swells didn’t look like much on the surface but when you got down on the pinnacles you could feel them at 70 ft. and they got stronger the closer you got to the surface. As we traveled along the outside of the island we were treated to regular visits by the humpback and grey whales returning north from the warmer waters where they wintered in the south. In some cases they would surface 50 ft. from the boat. If whales were close the boat would stop until they passed us by. Along with the whales we had sea lions, seals and a myriad of birds and other animals to watch as we traveled along. Usually at dark most would head off to bed and would awaken at our next destination. When you came up on deck in the morning we were usually anchored in a secluded area off a passage that we had traveled up during the night. It was not unusual to see bears on the shore close to the boat. There are binoculars located throughout the boat to use to watch the animal life. Another anchorage and more diving. It’s a tough life. At one of our stops we had a bald eagle land on the radar tower and proceed to watch all the folks on the upper deck spend the next half hour taking picture after picture of him. Our trip took us down the west side of Vancouver Island stopping to dive and enjoy points of interest along the way. One of our stops was at Friendly Cove which is the site where Captain Cook came ashore and claimed the area for Britain. We got a bit of a history lesson and learned how the Spanish were actually there first but they didn’t come ashore as the weather was bad. Apparently Britain and Spain came very close to war over who could make a claim on the area. The boat tied up at the dock in the cove and we were able to go to land where some of us found our way to the marker that commemorates Cooks landing. That along with a tour of the abandoned church and beach area was a nice way to finish off the evening. Heading south we stopped in at Bamfield. The captain had asked us if we were interested in a tour of the research station in Bamfield and as many were they called over and organized a tour for us. As we traveled along there were opportunities for shore trips. For those that wanted to pass up a dive the crew would arrange to put folks in at fishing villages or organize light house tours when we were anchored close by. After Bamfield we steamed overnight and when I arrived on the top deck early the morning of our last dive day we were travelling up the Strait of Juan de Fuca. After not seeing much in the way of civilization for the past week it was strange to see an ever increasing number of boats, homes and then towns and eventually the capital of BC, Victoria. For our last 2 dives we were treated to Race Rocks out in the strait and then on to Victoria’s inner harbor where we enjoyed some wandering around the harbor before diving the Ogden Point breakwater. We left Victoria in the late afternoon and enjoyed a leisurely crossing back to Steveston via Active Pass. We had enjoyed a 8 days of spectacular above and below water scenery, excellent food and great company.

 

Now before I finish this epic novel something has to be said of the crew. We spent 9 nights with a group of people that seemed to have nothing else on their minds other than to do anything to make the trip better. Meg and Monica were everywhere making sure people got whatever food and drink they wanted wherever they wanted it. Sten and Boris were always available for anyone that needed help with their dive gear or any other problems they may have encountered. Wherever we traveled Ted knew the history of the area and the names of the locals that were a part of the areas history. If you wanted to hear about far away lands Sten could provide you with a virtual tour of many parts of the world complete with hilarious stories of his travels. Enrique our chef was amazing in what he would have waiting for us for meals as well as snacks between dives. From the crab feast on the upper deck to the burgers off the barbeque the food was excellent. We had an electrical problem with a video camera which we needed a soldering iron to make the repairs. Enrique happened along at about that time and was interested in what we were working on. After hearing our need for the soldering gun he disappeared and returned a short time later with one that he found below someplace. No tools would have meant no video camera for the rest of the trip. Tim who we didn’t get to see too much of as he was always working below decks making sure everything was running smoothly. Finally last but not least that young hard working Bayu. As with all boats there is never ending painting and cleaning to be done. Bayu would be working away on some project and we would need to get something from our dive gear under where he was trying to work. He would just smile and move his tools out of the way and stop what he was doing until people got whatever they needed before returning to his task.

Mike, you put on a great show, I thank you for the hospitality and I look forward to another adventure on your boat, possibly Alaska or Socorro sometime in the future.   Darryl Harris

Diving down to the stern of the Transpac…

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

Location: Wreck of the Transpac, Butedale, British Columbia

Well, we have officially kicked off our Alaska season and are on our way from Vancouver (Steveston), British Columbia to Sitka, south-east Alaska.  It’s been a great start to the trip with 2 dives of scuba diving around Pearse Island, Browning Pass and Dillon Rock in Shushartie Bay. I’ve been having great fun getting reaquainted with closed circuit rebreather diving and diving a lovely and very easy-to-use Evolution ccr (made by the same folks at AP Valves who manufacture the Inspiration rebreather). Vis has been up and down - although even “up” wasn’t very good with only 15 – 20 feet at one of my favourite dive sites – 7 Tree Island in Browning Pass.  The consolation is that when the vis is down in one place because of a plankton bloom, it usually turns out to be pretty good if you move around a wee bit. And that is exactly what happened when we pulled into the abandoned ghost town of Butedale in the central coast and heart of the great bear rainforest - the visibility looked really good and it was time for a splash on the nearby wreck of the fishing vessel “Transpac”.

The Transpac is an unforgettable dive!! The 180 foot ship is aligned  vertically on a steep rock face just like a fly stuck to a wall. The bow is at 110 feet and the stern…. well, the stern is much deeper. Which is  where my dive buddy and I and a couple of other divers planned our dive for. And what a dive it was. Visibility was excellent below the first 30 feet. We descended down to the bow and could see other divers swimming around the top of the superstructure with their twinkling lights shining through the rigging and bits and pieces of the wreck. Very cool. But we didn’t stick around because our plan was to descend straight down the port side of the ship into the blackness. The divers’ twinkling lights were soon out of sight above us as we continued our freefall descent into the deep. It was a pretty amazing feeling. All too soon it was time to start heading for the surface, make our deco stops in the shallows with all sorts of interesting animals and critters to keep us occupied and interested and then finally break the surface with the biggest grins on our faces that you can imagine. Whhooeee. What a great start to the day.  Captain Mike

Surface Conditions: Sunny and really nice on the first day of the trip.  Flat calm. Overcast and light winds by Day 3.  Temperature mid 50′s – 60′s..

Underwater Conditions: Visibility as low as 10 feet in places, 15 – 20 at 7 Tree Island, 100 feet plus on the wreck of the Transpace.   Water temperature 46 degrees.

Fast forward to the end of Alaska 2008

Saturday, August 16th, 2008

Location: Steveston, Vancouver, British Columbia

Have to admit that I ended up a little behind with my Captain’s log entries.  Especially once Charlie and Emily, my amazing 5 and 8 year old kids, joined me for a couple of weeks onboard.  Seeing British Columbia and Alaska through their eyes is very refreshing and entertaining.   They loved the orcas and humpbacks, loved climbing up on the bow of the Nautilus Explorer and touching an iceberg, loved hiking through the woods and sitting in 107 degree natural hotsprings.  They came out in the dive skiff with me on every single dive.  They were fascinated by the ever inquisitive stellar sealions and were disappointed that they couldn’t go scuba diving with them.  In fact both kids were making lots of noise about wanting their own  drysuits for next year.   My favourite memory though is taking them kayaking through the Le Conte icefield and around the icebergs  -  I  was exceptionally proud of Emily who “went solo” for the first time in a kayak (and what a place to do it!!) and while Charlie was in a double kayak with me, he was very clearly “the Captain” and in charge and darn near ready to go solo himself.  They both drove a pretty mean  inflatable at Inian Cove as well although their dockings need a bit of  work.   Amazing memories.  And food for thought for me regarding possibly offering an extra “family” trip in Alaska each season.  Well, that’s it for Alaska and British Columbia for this year.   We are back in our seldom visited homeport of Steveston, British Columbia for a 22 hour turnaround before departing southbound for Mexico and the start of  Guadalupe Island great white shark season.  Sad to say goodbye to our northern nudibranchs, giant pacific octopus, wolfeels and all the other critters up north but time to say HELLO to big honking white sharks up to 18 feet long.   More to follow.  Captain Mike

Weather: Sunny, hot, calm and beautiful sunny day.

Water: Water temperatures and visiblity unknown.

Kermode bear on the beach

Wednesday, July 23rd, 2008

Location: Wreck of the Transpac, Butedale, central coast of British Columbia

We missed a Kermode bear on the beach at Butedale by 5 minutes this morning.  Darn!!!!!   Lou, the caretaker of the abandoned ghost town and cannery at Butedale came up on the VHF radio as we were approaching to let me know that there had been a kermode bear on the beach all morning..  Yippee. The densest population of  Kermode bears  
- which are a black bear that is white, not albino but white fur with a black nose and paws – is found on Princess Royal Island which is where Butedale is located.   All hands rushed to the foredeck in great excitement and……the bear disappeared into the bush just as we approached.  Sighhh.    It’s funny that we are quite rightly concerned  about the danger of encountering bears in the bush and yet these animals are so easily spooked.   On arriving at Butedale, we were surprised to see a fleet of BC Forest Service boats anchored out in the bay.  Turns out that they are concerned that the pilings and structure of the cannery buildings that were abandoned 30 years ago might be on government land instead of privately owned land.  I will  reserve comment on this expenditure of government resources although I understand from Lou that they had a very nice hike up to the lake and so on.   Our morning dive on the wreck of the Transpac was outstanding  as usual with visibility estimated at 80 feet or more.  The Transpac is without a doubt the most amazing wreck I have ever seen  -  standing upright as it does with the transom of the 180 foot fishboat plunked down on a ledge at 285 feet with the bow at 110 feet and the wreck aligned almost perfectly upright on the sheer wall.  Did a dock dive in the afternoon and those divers who stayed under the pilings had a fabulous dive with giant pacific octopus sightings as well as 20 plus ratfish  (aka chimera).  We’re off to Shushartie Bay (Dillon Rock) and Browning Wall tonight and then in to Vancouver to finish off this very fine trip.   Captain Mike

Weather: High scattered clouds, 10 knot winds from the south, smooth seas, air temperatures in the 70°’s.

Water: Visibility 80 feet plus on the Transpac.  Water temperature 48°

The biggest glacier calving we have ever seen

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Location: Le Conte glacier, southeast Alaska

This has been our most interesting year ever for icebergs at Le Conte  inlet in Alaska.   The sheer size and number of icebergs that we encountered at the beginning of the season was unlike anything I have ever seen before.  Some of the bergs were easily 4 – 5 times as long  as the Nautilus Explorer and towered above us.  The icepack was so thick on the first couple of trips that I wasn’t able get past the  “last bend” and get anywhere as near the glacier face as I would have liked  (and anybody who has been on an Alaska trip with me knows how tenacious and patient I am in working my way through the icefields!).  Well, today there were a lot fewer icebergs than we had previously seen and I was finally able to position the Nautilus right up close to massive Le Conte Glacier.    This icefield is just enormous and easily towers 500 feet above the water.    The rule of thumb that charter boat Captains use is that it is safe to approach within 2 cables  (400 yards) of the glacier.   I can tell you that it is really something to be parked 400 yards from the glacier, listening to it snapping, crackling and groaning and wondering what is going to happen next.  So what happened next????   Not much.  It was pretty quiet which is likely why there was so little ice in the water.  We watched and waited and after an hour or so everyone went inside for lunch.  I wandered over to the other side of the wheelhouse when I heard this enormous BANG CRACK BOOM and holy s%#t all I could see was an enormous splash of water and a series of very steep 10 foot high waves coming straight at us as we were beam to.  I jammed the engines in gear, goosed the throttles and got the Nautilus partially turned around when we got smacked really hard by the first wall of water.  What a sight.  I would be less than honest if I didn’t say that my hands were more than a shade wobbly and shakey!!!!    Most amazing of all, Karen Straus – one of our guests and a professional photographer - had a funny feeling that was something was going to happen.  She left lunch, set up her hi definition video camera on a tripod on the hot tub deck, focussed on the glacier face which then let go 15 seconds after she hit “record”.  Karen captured the whole thing on hi def video and it is truly an incredible sequence.  My thought is that I might hold off by 3 cables (600 yards) next time!!  Captain Mike

click here to see our Alaska 2008 video

Water: Water visibility and temperature unknown.

Weather: High overcast, rain showers, calm winds, temperatures high 50′s.

Guests who are great sports and 1 darned grizzly bear

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

Location: Secret Bay, Chicagoff Island, southeast Alaska

Why is he a darned grizzly bear??   Because he chose to amble across the beach 150 yards away from the  Nautilus Explorer in the middle of my morning briefing.  Cheeezzzz, how am I supposed to do a briefing when all the guests are running for their cameras and binoculars..  Anchored up in beautiful and scenic Secret Bay today.  I hesitate to publish the topographic name of this bay because (a) it is so beautiful  (b) we have had really good luck with grizzly bears here (c) there is an amazing grotto of marble accessible up the stream  (d) when the salmon return to this stream, it is a great place to snorkel with them and (e) we have a permit with the good graces of the U.S. Forest Service that allows our guests stroll, walk and hike through the rainforest here.     My only mistake in briefing our guests was in referring to this as “rain forest” because it was indeed raining.  Really raining!!  More like a deluge actually.    We split into 2 groups  -  hikers and snorkellers – and things didn’t go quite according to plan.  We had an extremely low tide this morning  ( – 1.3 feet on a 23 foot exchange) which made it impossible to take guests up to the marble grotto by inflatable.  Everybody had to go overland instead.  The very heavy rain and extreme low tide made for a very fast flowing stream and less than ideal conditions for snorkelling.  The really awesome thing about the guests on this trip is that everyone was a really good sport about the “challenges” and were laughing and smiling and making jokes afterwards about what a great time they had.   We’re off to dive Baranoff Island this afternoon and then on to the natural hot-springs tonight.  Cheers from Alaska.  Captain Mike

Weather: Heavy rain, overcast, calm winds and seas, air temperatures in the low 50′s.  Very unseasonable weather for July.

Water: Water temperature and visibility unknown.

Duck F*rts…

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

Location: Inian Island, Elfin Cove, Icy Strait, southeast Alaska.

I always try to maintain the best of taste in my Captain Log entries.  No cussing.  No inappropriate remarks.  Nothing that might cause offence.  So why then am I talking about duck farts??   Well, it turns out that the drink called duck farts is a well known alcoholic beverage among local residents in southeast Alaska.  You can get them in Juneau, you can get them in Sitka, you can get them in Ketchikan and you can get them in Elfin Cove.  After a great day of scuba diving, inflatable tours, zodiac kayaking  (kayaking with a comfort boat ie. zodiac, tagging along behind with beverages, refreshments and an easy way to get home if you get tired of paddling) and whale watching around Inian Island, we took everybody ashore after dinner for a “look-around” the tiny boardwalk community of Elfin Cove.   Our guests somehow got waylaid at the Coho Bar and Grill and bartender introduced them to “duck farts”.  The Nautilus Explorer was anchored outside the Cove and during the various inflatable shuttles back to the boat it seemed that all we heard from our guests was “we want more duck farts”, “I’d like a duck fart waiting for me please”, “do you know how to make duck farts” and so on.  I suppose that reporting this isn’t really in the best of taste but it was pretty funny at the time.   Incidentally, duck farts is a shot glass of layered Kahlua, Baileys and Crown Royal.  The layering is accomplished by carefully pouring the alcohol into the shot glass over a spoon help upside-down.  The end result really is quite pretty.   I have absolutely no idea what the linkage is though to a “duck fart”!!!!  Captain Mike

Weather: Heavy rain, overcast, windy until mid-afternoon and then calm, 6 foot seas outside but calm in our anchorage, air temperatures in the mid 50′s.

Water: Visibility 20 feet, water temperature 45 – 46 degrees

Incredibly cute sea otters

Friday, July 18th, 2008

Location: Inian Island, Icy Strait, southeast Alaska

Had a fabulous day of diving around Inian Island today.  Hit the slack current  at “Wall of Life” which is an amazing dive.   The current at “Inian Wall” turned a wee bit late  (7 hours and 45 minutes after the previous slack which is very strange) but all of our scuba diving guests really enjoyed that dive as well.  Finished the day off with a splash on “Susan’s Hooters” which is always a favourite despite being located off the outer exposed coast and subject to swell and chop.  I should point out that Susan was very definite in naming this site and that the name is not in any way sexist or degrading!!   We typically observe lots of “cute” sea otters in this area which is pretty darned good considering that it was once believed that they had been hunted to extinction by fur traders..   A pocket of survivors were later discovered on an island in the Aleutians and bred and transplanted to this part of Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon and California where there has been good recovery of the populations.  There is something very appealing about the sea otters.  Perhaps it’s the way they swim on their back much the way scuba divers do.  Perhaps it’s because they appear to be so cute and cuddly and furry  (they have the densest fur of any animal with over 1 million hairs per square inch which is what provides them with insulation in our less than tropical temperatures!).  Maybe it’s because the Mum’s carry their babies around on their tummies as they float upside down and then wrap and stash their kids in the kelp before going for a dive.   Or, as we saw last week, the Mum’s will throw a protective arm over their baby when startled and roll over and dive under the kelp with the babe.  That is some pretty impressive breath hold diving for those babies!!   The flip side of this is that a number of marine biologists I know are not very keen on sea otters and see them as mean, ornery and a pain in the you-know-where.   We even heard a story about a male sea otter that was preying on female harbour seals by biting them on their head and then attempting to sexually assault them  (note that I haven’t been able to verify that story).  I can tell you that sea otters are either extremely brave or very self confident judging from what I saw today  -  just imagine a colony of big, ferocious stellar sealions  with lots of them hauled out and maybe a hundred or more animals swimming around in the water.  To my utter astonishment, I observed one wee little sea otter swimming around on his/her back in the middle of all these sealions – some of whom seemed to me posturing aggressively towards the sea otter.  Amazing but the sea otter came out unscathed.   It is just plain great being out here and being able to see all this stuff.  Captain Mike.

Weather: Low overcast, pouring with rain, 15 – 20 knots of wind, northwest swell outside, choppy inside, air temperature low 50′s.  Not a nice day unfortunately but at least the Nautilus Explorer is nice and cozy and warm.

Water:Water temperature 45 degrees, visibility 20 feet.

Humpback whales, orcas and a mystery dive

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

Location: Point Adolphus and Inian Island, Icy Strait, southeast Alaska.

We started our 4th scuba diving charter of our 2008 Alaska season off by whale watching off Point Adolphus across from the entrance to Glacier Bay.  What gives with that as this trip is supposed to be a dive charter!!   Well, the thing is that Point Adolphus is on of the most productive feeding grounds in southeast Alaska and the humpback whale sightings are usually quite awesome.  Today was no exception, starting off with a pod of orcas cruising along on the surface 15 miles east of Adolphus and then loads of humpbacks right at the point.  There’s actually not much involved in whale watching here from my perspective  -  all I have to do is idle around for half an hour to allow the whales to get used to us and then shut down the engines and wait for the humpbacks to swim past to see what’s going on!!   We always seem to get our most spectacular whale sightings when they come to us rather than the other way around.  Got a good warmup dive in at Inian Island and then did a “mystery” (exploration) dive.   The exploration dive didn’t work out as well as I had hoped unfortunately and got a big “X” for future reference on my charts..   I’ve been batting .75 on mystery dives this year so hopefully our guests will allow me to try one more on this trip.   The only thing I can say about the exploratory was that it had lots of really nice sand.   Yikes.   Captain Mike

Weather:Overcast and raining.  Calm in the morning but windy by late afternoon.  Rippled seas in our anchorage with bigger stuff outside.  Air temperatures in the mid 50′s  (this is supposed to be July with temps in the 70′s!!!!!!).

Water: Water temperature 45 degrees, visibility 20 feet.

More helicopters than dragonflies

Wednesday, July 16th, 2008

Juneau gets a LOT of cruise ship traffic in the summer and there is a lot of infrastructure in town to deal with all the tourists.  Everything from a tram that goes up the side of a mountain (which is actually quite fun with lots of good hiking at the top) to a salmon hatchery (something else which is pretty neat as well) to loads of whale watching boats, tour buses, flightseeing and helicopter tours over the Mendenhall Glacier ( which looms over the town and is quite spectacular).  Today was turnover day and as I sat in my office doing paperwork, I happened to look out the window and just about fell over in astonishment.  I’ve never seen so many helicopters flying at one time  -  not even at the height of a forest fire in my previous life as a water bomber pilot.  It seemed like there were helicopters everywhere with one group of 7 flying in a line towards Mendenhall and at least 6 more flying back the other way.  They looked just like dragonflies to my eye and it was a sight that I won’t soon forget.  Our fantastic staff are all busily working away at getting the ship turned around for our next group of guests boarding this evening.  Captain Mike

Weather:Nice early summer weather with broken clouds, calm winds and seas, air temperatures in the high 60′s.

Water: Water visibility and temperature unknown.