Posts Tagged ‘sealions’

my best dive in my life! los ilotes – march 22, 2011

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

Great Day! Saw a lot of playful sealions trying to bite in our suits, masks, cameras, imitating our bubbles and being childish clinging to our legs. Also some nice jawfish big groupers and so on. The water was quite cold but playing with mammals is totally different from interaction with fish, so it was worth every second of shivering ;-)

Annette and Birte from Germany

Sea of Cortez, at this time of the year is full of surprises, like 17C water and low visibility. Nevertheless it is a great feeling going back to the place where I have done most of my diving and watching supersize groupers and a huge schools of sardines. There were so many sardines that the layer from the surface to the rocks was used by the fish as shelter, whenever a sealion passed through the sardine it level a tunnel of fish behind, the pups where so playful that we were having a hard time to keep our hoods on our heads and our fins on our feet. going back 7 years to the same place (Los Islotes) there was not so much fish that’s when it was legal to fish or recollect, is amazing how this place is coming back in not even 10 year thanks all for the big effort.
DM Joel IHO
My best dive in my life!
Falco coming up from last dive at Los Islotes.

One of our most pleasant transits in memory. The sea is smooth as silk. Captain and guest blog. November 5, 2010

Saturday, November 6th, 2010

After a very successful final day of diving with the white sharks of Isla Guadalupe, we gave 1 long blast on the ships whistle in farewell and set a course for Islas San Benitos Island and her untouched kelp forests.

We have been to San Benitos several times throughout this season, and last season as well, and have experienced some amazing diving there. Some of the most healthy, beautiful kelp forests you can find anywhere, teeming with california sea lions, guadalupe fur seals, and the occasional harbour seal.  Northern elephant seals can also be seen along some of the beaches. Bat Rays, horn sharks, yellow-tail, abalone, and lobsters also make their home there. From Guadalupe it is a 16 hour overnight run to reach San Benitos, and in the morning before reaching the islands we could feel the swell building and getting quite large, as Captain Mike had warned of us.  He watches the weather models like a hawk when he is shoreside. .

On arrival we could see the big, long swell building even more as it reached the shoal water of the west island, slowly being pushed up by the shallows even a couple of miles offshore, then racing in towards the island before cresting and crashing down in a mess of white water. It was a very impressive sight. Unfortunately for us these big left over waves from some far off weather system were not kind to the dive conditions at Benitos. We could see immediately that the water was quite green, and in closer to land, where our divesites are, the visibility was reduced to around 2-3 meters (10 feet). The big swell was also hard to escape, with a wraparound effect even in the sheltered bay the swell was felt quite significantly. Everyone still got a dive or two in, but with conditions as they were it was a little disappointing. That being said, as I asked the last diver of the day to come up, ’how was your dive?’, he answered that is was really great! So, I guess it’s all your perspective on things.

We had planned on diving two days at San Benitos, but decided to cut it short after the first day and start heading straight for the Socorro Islands. It is a 600 nautical mile journey from San Benitos to San Benedicto, Socorro, which will take 3 nights and 2 1/2 days to complete. As of writing this log we have been underway for 27 hours, and it has been one of the most pleasant transits in memory. All day today the sea was as smooth as silk, with not even a breeze for the majority of the day. The swell is long and low, creating a very smooth, undulating vista as far as the eye can see. The vessel movement is minimal and what movement we do feel is gentle, slow and relaxing. Just before lunch today we came across a pod of Risso’s dolphins. These greyish-white dolphins are rarely seen (it is my first time ever seeing one),  and have a very high, distinctive dorsal fin. We spent 20 minutes cruising slowly with the pod of roughly 30 animals, watching them tail-slapping, breaching and spy-hopping to sneak a peak at the big white boat.

This evening we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset, not a cloud in the sky, not a ripple on the water. Just the orange glow of the sun against the smooth, light blue of the pacific ocean. A beautiful transit so far and expecting (hoping) for more of the same tomorrow.

Captain Gordon Kipp

Weather conditions: winds light/nil, sea height 6-10 ft with a period of 17-18 seconds, skies clear, air temp 25C

9. Tag 04.11.2010, Tagebuch Nautilus Explorer, Repositioning Trip Pazifik

2010

Auf Grund von schlechten Sichtweiten vor San Benito entschloss sich die

Gruppe nach dem ersten Tauchtag abzubrechen und auf direktem Weg nach

Socorro zu fahren. Ja nach Strömung und Wetter werden wir die 600 Seemeilen

in ca. 55 Stunden zurücklegen.

Der Tag heute an Bord war sehr entspannt. Viele bearbeiteten ihre Bilder,

manche zogen sich mit einem Buch in ihre Kabine zurück. Andere genossen ein

Sonnenbad oder entspannten sich bei angenehmen Gesprächen. Gegen Mittag

sichteten wir eine Schule von Risso´s Delphinen (Rundkopfdelphine), ein

fotografisches Highlight. Niemand von uns hatte je vorher diese Art von

Delphinen gesehen. Eine volle halbe Stunden kurvten wir mit der Nautilus um

die Delphingruppe herum, einfach herrlich! Mal schauen, ob wir morgen

tagsüber auf unserem Weg nach Socorro wieder so ein Glück haben werden.

The seasons are changing at Isla Guadalupe. More clouds, showers, cooler weather. And the white sharks seem hungrier. Captain, dive guide and guest log. 24 October 2010.

Sunday, October 24th, 2010

The seasons are definitely changing at Isla Gaudalupe and I get to witness it first hand.  Its the subtle changes occurring that grab my attention – the faster moving clouds, the occasional shower, the cooler weather at night and a more rawness in the beauty of the island.  That, and the sharks just seem hungrier!  It adds up for some great action in the cages.  Shredder was back, and he sure seems bigger than the last time I saw him.  The beautiful large female ‘Scarborough’ was swimming about and a couple younger, smaller males appeared to be trying to ‘woo’ her!  Some spectacular underwater activity from the tuna, the bonitos and the sea lions mixing it up with the sharks had everyone in a great mood and made for some wonderful videography.  As always, the good time experienced is enhanced by the friendliness of the guests I meet and crew I live with. If this is my office – I’m a lucky guy!  Captain Kevin

The adrenaline pump was in overdrive again today: 2 big male (4 meter plus) great whites within reach bringing it on right in front of us. Add to that a few playful sea lions and hunting tuna (like bullets they are) and you got yourself yet another unforgettable day. Oh, and the apple crumble, cookies, hot cacao and more cookies when we came up were icing on the cake. (Bart and Kevin)

It’s 19:07, we have just left Guadalupe behind us and are on our way to Ensenada ETA tomorrow 12:30. I’m sitting in the lounge where the divers have taken up the couches, half of them have the eyes closed after an active 3 days, four dives a day, white sharks around about 70% of the time. The once that manage to keep the eyes open sit with laptops on their laps comparing the pictures they have shot of our under water friends.

What we do here is unique! You can go to the zoo and watch animals in cages, but here at Guadalupe you can get in a cage your self and observe animals in freedom. The cages are made out of aluminum and equipped with surface supplied air so you don’t need to have a tank on your back. There are backup tanks in the corners of the cage… Most enjoyable I find it to watch the sea lions play around the white sharks, even though those mammals are on the menu, it does not stop them from swimming right next to this well teethed preditor. Like young flexible scooter riders fast and gracious around a big truck.

The water is 21 Celsius / 65 Fahrenheit, most of us diving in 7mm wetsuits, hoods and gloves. When the sharks are around and active it is no exception for divers to stay under water for 3 hours and than when you get out…. there is hot chocolate a warm shower and a jacuzzi.

Jeroen Elout  Dive master on the Nautilus Explorer.

Scuba diving in Mexico was just super… the best I ever experienced. greetings to Captain Mike from the Swiss humour.. – guest and divemaster blog including Isla Cedros – October 4, 2010

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

Second time on the boat, Alaska last year was already a highlight. this time scuba diving in Mexico with a new crew. just super… also the diving, both times the best i ever experienced. we will be back for more. greetings to captain mike from swiss humor. you missed us.  michel

Hi, this is the very first blog of my life – we had fantastic (but cold) days. Having seen sooooo many things never seen before. Great White sharks at Guadalupe – seals – giant kelp forests – mola mola – and the cream on top after a hard diving day is the hot tub and the beer collection!!!

Hope to be back sometime in the future.

Cheers, Nils

kean age15 and selina age 18 : diving with the great white sharks was a cool experience and i thought it was really cool that we were allowed to go on the top of the cage because it is much more intense.(:

the  cage that was open the whole day was pretty practical, because you could go when ever you wanted. what i loved to do after a day of shark diving was finding out     which sharks were swimming around at this day. the only thing that i didn’t like was the coldness of the water. :P

diving with the sealions and seals was also cool. and the kelp is cool. the crew was also really nice and id always come again

doris

ich habe das erste mal auf einem schiff urlaub gemacht und auf der nautilus hat es mir sehr gut gefallen. die crew ist unschlagbar, einfach super. sehr freundlich ,hilfsbereit und  aufmerksam. was mich am meisten begeistert hat war, dass die ganze crew am naechsten morgen von allen gaesten die vornamen gewusst hatten. die tauchplaetze mit den weissen haien, das kelp und die seeloewen sind ein unvergessliches erlebnis.

diesen tripp wuerde ich gerne wieder einmal machen.

From the surface the massive kelp beds around Isla Cedros go as far as the eye can see and beckon you to venture beneath and explore. Through a brilliant sunlit milky haze blasts a deep firey orange to deep emerald green as the kelp beds descend to the depths of some twenty to thirty meters. Teaming with life, the kelp forests are a sight to behold; breath taking as you look to the surface and thousands of fish circle above your head. A fire in the sky, god rays come streaming through dense leaves. Amazingly colorful, beautifully serene as gentle currents pull you into the forest leaving the big blue behind. The marine life feels no fear; sea lions and harbor seals dart through the kelp showing off their agility. The dive site is amazingly healthy, a jewel, from the smallest critters to big Barracuda, Bat Rays, Groupers and Sheepshead’s. The kelp forest is a spectacular show, you’ll want more than a couple of dives to truly enjoy what this emerald forest has to offer!

Divemaster Simon

Surface Conditions: Sunny and warm with mild winds, the ocean a mill pond.

Underwater Conditions: Viz.- 40ft+, Temp. 60F (7mm wetsuit), mild current.

Spotted fur seal and harbour seals welcome Dr. Erich Ritter and “Shark School” to the giant kelp forests of San Benitos Island – divemaster “shark chick” log – August 13, 2010

Friday, August 13th, 2010

We were happy to welcome on board our guests from Germany along with Dr. Erich Ritter. As the group got their sea-legs dolphins played on our bow and we soon arrived at San Benitos. Dr. Ritter will be conducting “Shark School” on board this trip in which he lectures on different topics each night.

Our first dive day was both shocking and amazing. First jumping into the water, we were shocked by the chill and amazed by the beauty and health of the kelp forests. For kelp to grow, the water temperature needs to be a maximum of around 65F. We should have judged by the abundance of thick strong kelp floating alongside the Nautilus Explorer that the water was well below the max. Checking our temperatures, we found the water to be a fresh 55F. But with cold water comes a lot of nutrients which means more life. Once we acclimated to the unexpected cold factor, we were able to truly enjoy the beauty of a healthy kelp forest. Garibaldi were guarding their red algae gardens, large male Sheep Head cruised their territories, Senoritas busily cleaned passing customers, and of course the ever playful young Sea Lions twirled, teased, and buzzed the divers. The speed and grace with which a Sea Lion pup spins around in the water reminds us that we were not meant to swim in the seas for very long. We are fortunate visitors to this underwater world and they welcomed us with a well choreographed ballet. What an excellent first day in the kelp.

Having relocated the evening before, upon waking the second day, we enjoyed one of the famous Baja Sunrises at Isla Cedros. The island is tall and named after the Cedar tree that grows on the ridges of the cliffs. Anchoring near the northern end of the island, we edged up close to a large expanse of kelp which was one of the most beautiful dives I have ever done. During each of the three dives we did that day, I was struck by the range and intensity of the colors that exist in the shallows of a kelp forest. Following a rocky ridge that connected two areas of kelp, we saw the brilliant green of the swaying sea grass, vibrant yellow of the Giant Kelp, the deep coffee brown of the Palm Kelp, the purples and reds of the crusted algae covering the rocks, all accented by the golden Garibaldi. With a mild swell, the forest gently swayed to the natural rhythm of mother nature’s song.

Hidden amongst the tall stalks of twisted kelp and stalking in the shadows of the kelp canopy was an illusive creature. Only catching a glimpse of it here and there, the spotted fur seal was gone in a blink. Then, out of the shadows emerged our kelp monster. A cuddly animal with short flippers and big eyes: a Harbor Seal. Then another and then another. The forest was full of them and they were making contact with us. Playing hide and seek with the divers, several spotted Harbor Seals played with us all day. One diver came out of the water saying that it was the “Best underwater experience of his life.” Another diver filmed the seals biting an tugging at his fin tips then kissing the front of his camera. We had a great time diving Isla Cedros.

Our third day found us back at San Benitos. For the first dive, we chose a spot that was a little deeper then the previous days. It was early, so the light was not strong and with a very thick canopy of kelp over our heads, it was “dark and creepy” and full of mystery. Although, the site was beautiful and full of life, the thermocline dropped the temperature down a few degrees too many, so we pulled up anchor and headed for a site a little less deep. We ended up in a beautiful cove and stayed there the rest of the day. With multiple diving options, everyone was happy to stay and were rewarded with playful Sea Lions and an abundance of fish life that was incredible. A healthy Kelp Forest is so alive and vibrant.

One more diving day here at San Benitos then it is off to visit Guadalupe Island and the Great White Sharks.

Surface Conditions: Partly cloudy, sunny in the mornings, calm to breezy, mid 70′sF day temp, mid 60′sF night time.

Underwater Conditions: Viz- 30-50′ with some planktonic creatures, mild current, mild to moderate surge in some sites, water temp. 55F / 14C…. brrrrr.

Divemaster Jessie “Sharkchick”

The great white sharks have returned to Guadalupe Island.. yahhhyyyyyy… diveguide and guest blog – August 1, 2010

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

So after finishing of 6 days diving in the Channel islands our trip has now reached Guadalupe Island. We arrived with grey weather but after a couple of hours the sun burned through and we had a beautiful sunny day and dead calm seas. It was a real treat. The first two hours we only had one sealion passing by, at a time thoughts where thinking are we to early in the season?

Then finally at the surface a 3,5 m male came by and he was a frisky one! Quick turns , steep dives and ascents and just passing inches away from the bars of the cages. Eyeballing  us. He continued staying with us until an other male a bit bigger and better fed took over and dominated the water around  Nautilus Explorer. He was not getting in as close to us as the first one but was giving us a good show until light was out and we finished the day. Again we see the funny behaiviour with a young male Californian sealion playing with the white shark, at one moment it looked like the shark would have a chance but the sealion out manouvered him.

Sun , calm seas and good viz, Good start of the new season! Nice and fun to be back again!

Surface conditions . Sunny , dead still seas 28 C 82F

Underwater conditions. Viz 100-120 ft, could clearly see the anchor chain. Temp 16-17 C 65-67F

Absolutely great dive with big great white sharks around, so close that I am able to kiss them, i love those sharks! I’m shark addicted!

They are beautiful, I never thought they would get so close to us before I came. And I never thought they would show up so quickly, either.

And a beautiful crew too! I love Nautilus Explorer and all the crew members, everybody working perfectly together. Thanks!

Sabine

First of August 2010 – Swiss National Day – we had fantastic dives at Guadalupe Island and saw  Great White Sharks.. One of them was very curious. That was great fun being in the cage! :-) all of us had great fun and the photographers are very happy with the taken pictures and are preparing now thrilling slide shows being showed at home demonstrating how courageous we are. This trip is worth being recommended to everybody, it is incredible to watch this perfect predators! Dani

Erscht Auguscht 2010 – Schwizer Nationalfiertig – moer hond super touchgaeng vor guadalupe ka und bis zu vier wissi hai glichzitig gsaea. Oana vo dena isch mega neugierig gsi und haed useri kaefig mehreri mol agschubst und probiert drizbissa. denn isch amel was los im kaefig! :-) es haed allna spass gmacht und d’fotografa send uebergluecklich mit da gschossna bilder und stellid etz spannendi dia shows zemma zum dahom zoaga, wia muetig moer alli do gsi seand! Ma kas nu allna empfehla, isch wirklich unglaublich zum dena riesiga raeuber zuazulaga! Dani

Mein tausendster Tauchgang und soooo schoen: unser Kapitaen Gordon war als Cage Master fuer uns zustaendig und fuehrte uns direkt in 12 Meter Tiefe zu drei weissen Haien. Einer des Trios war sehr interessiert an uns Vieren im Kaefig. Er kam uns so nah, dass wir ihn haetten beruehren koennen, will heissen: er landete mit seinem Maul im Kaefig. Doch ueberrascht wie wir waren, begnuegten wir uns mit neugierigen Blicken und machten schoene Bilder von diesem unglaublichen Geschoepf. Diese Leichtigkeit und Eleganz, mit der er sich durch das tiefblaue Wasser bewegt, ist ueberwaeltigend. Man kann sich gar nicht satt sehen. Drei Tauchgaenge am Tag vergehen wie im Fluge und wir sind schon gespannt auf morgen…Tag drei in Guadalupe, wir warten!

Bring on Jaws!!! Captain’s Log for Guadalupe Island great white sharks and guest comments on California Channel Islands – July 31, 2010

Sunday, August 1st, 2010

The sky is overcast, but the wind is light and the seas calm, making for a very comfortable and relaxing transit for our first white shark cage diving trip of the season to Guadalupe Island. Being in the water and up close to a white shark is one of my favorite things in the world to do, and as I sit here writing this I have a feeling in my stomach something like I used to get on Christmas eve when I was waiting for Santa Claus to come. Well, something like that anyway. I’m excited, a little anxious, and I can’t wait to open my presents. In this case my “present” being a 15 foot torpedo shaped mass of  muscle and cartilage with a mouth extremely full of teeth.

Not as scary as it sounds. In fact, not scary at all once you’ve experienced it.  Awe-inspiring, humbling, enlightening, adrenaline-inducing, definitely all of those things. But I have never experienced anything resembling fear in my previous two seasons of cage diving at Guadalupe, and I have seen a lot of big sharks very close-up. For some people it’s not the fear of white sharks, but the idea that ‘cage diving’ isn’t really diving at all, and it would be boring to be stuck in a cage. If that’s how you feel, then you have not cage dived with us at Guadalupe Island. I love scuba diving, and I have experienced many beautiful dives with Giant Mantas, whalesharks, schooling hammerheads, sea-lions, humpbacks and beluga whales, but probably my best three dives of all-time have been from inside (or on top of) a cage at Guadalupe. It is that awesome!

Ok, I’m finished preaching. I actually wasn’t intending to when I started this log, I promise. We’ll be arriving at Isla Guadalupe around 0900 tomorrow morning, dropping our anchor in 240 ft of water just over a couple hundred meters from the cliffs on the sheltered side at the north end of the island, and hopefully spending the next four days in the company of that famous white shark ‘smile’. I can’t wait to see that first big dorsal fin breaking the surface and hear the shouts from the crew, “Shark!!” Stay tuned for updates from the shark files!

Captain Gordon Kipp

The first two dives  on our last dive day in the California Channel Islands were really good, lots of life in the kelp, we saw a lot of bat rays, maybe 15-20. And one time as I was swimming through the kelp I looked up and saw two birds (cormorants) swimming next to me underwater! It was really nice. Dive 3 was not so good with very low visibility.

Everything is great, except the hot tub makes my beer warm.

Wolfgang

Everything has been perfect! Two beautiful dives this morning at Anacapa Island full of life in an amazing kelp forest. Although the water is cold the hot tub is always there waiting to warm you up. And the crew always trying to bring you more beer in the hot tub!

Peter

The diving was great today the vis could have been better… but the kelp looked like a underwater garden. Also some sea lions were playing at the dive site 40km off shore… quite a swim!

Stefan Pircher.

“The California Channel Islands”, das sind verspielte Seeloewen, 2m grosse Barsche, flinke Fledermausrochen, gut getarnte Engelhaie und die leuchtend orangen Garibaldis im Kelp. Eine Kulisse wie im Maerchenwald, in den diffus die Sonne scheint und sich die Strahlen brechen. Da ist aber auch die Bohrinsel “Eureka”, welche man bei laufendem Betrieb betauchen darf: ein Moloch, der als Fremdkoerper mitten im Pazifik steht und schon 1m unter Wasser komplett bewachsen ist wie ein intaktes Riff mit all seinen kleinen und grossen Bewohnern und uebermuetigen Seeloewen, welche die Plattform fuer sich als perfekten Rueckzugsort vereinnahmt haben. Mit einem Trockentauchanzug und 5mm Handschuhen laesst es sich im durchschnittlich 15 Grad Celsius kuehlen Wasser eine Stunde komfortabel tauchen. Sechs aufregende Tauchtage sind vorbei, jetzt sind wir bereit und aufgewaermt fuer 4 Tage Kaefigtauchen mit dem grossen Weissen…

Christiane Floren

Wenn man in den channel islands taucht, fuehlt man sich in eine andere welt versetzt. atemberaubende kelpwaelder wiegen sich in der brandung, die einen mikrokosmus fuer eine unzaehlige vielfallt von tieren darstellen. ein urlaub, den ich sicher nie vergessen werde.

Alexander Wasenbelz

The diving is amazing and after some days you get used to the cold water too. We have seen everything we wanted sea lions, angel sharks, cow nose stingrays lots more and lots of kelp which is interesting for diving. The sea lions are wonderful, playing around so fast and curious just gorgeous. Now we are pretty exciting for the Great White.

Claudia and Ewald

From Socorro to the Sea of Cortez we saw it all :: from seahorses to mantas, sharks, sea lions and even nudibranchs — dive guide and first mate blog – June 9, 2010

Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

From South to North, Big and Small, We saw it all: Sea Horses, Mantas, Sharks, Sea Lions and Nudibranchs.

Let us remember back a few days to those spectacular dives at Socorro where we left you off with our last Dive-Master Log. Our cruise North into the Sea of Cortez, was very smooth until we got close to the southern Baja peninsula where different currents and winds meet. There, for a few hours, the going got rough but once we made it into the Gulf of California it smoothed back down, allowing us a good nights rest before our first dive in our new enviroment. Being only a couple of hundred miles north you would expect similar conditions, but that is absolutely not the case. The Sea of Cortez is colder and this time of year there is a lot of algae and plankton in the water making the visibility somewhat limited. But, with so much food in the water you also have a lot of life.

Our first dive in this area was on the southern tip of Cerralvo island, a site I don’t have the luxury of visiting very often due to it being a little to far to visit from La Paz where I have lived for the past ten years. This site is Spectacular!! It is a long shallow ridge that is covered in very healthy coral that makes a labyrinthine maze ideal habitat for all kinds of animals including a small colony of California Sea Lions and plenty of grunts, goatfish and barber-fish.  In the afternoon we did a couple of dives at La Reina reef, which like always, lived up to its name of Queen of reefs. There were Sea Lions on the Rock and all kinds of beautiful life in the water. Jessie (DM) had told everybody in the briefing that this was a good site to search for sea horses and true enough, a yellow and an orange sea horse were spotted.

The following day we did an early dive at the Salvatierra, an old ferry boat wreck that sunk in 1975 and is now nearly totally destroyed but still makes for an interesting dive. Midday we went on a quest to El Mogote to see if we could find a Whale Shark to snorkel with. Unfortunately after two hours of careful searching we came out empty handed, they just didn’t want to be found!  We Spent the afternoon at Suwani Reef diving with huge schools of spot tail grunts, barracudas, goat fish and scads, but my highlight of the day was a pair of Cortez stingrays that one of the guests spotted. The male stingray held on to the female so hard that when she swam away he just stayed stuck. We did a night dive here too which was calm and beautiful.

Yesterday we began the day diving at Fang Ming Wreck and then spent the rest of the day at Los Islotes, probably the most famous dive site in the area due to the permanent colony of California Sea Lions that lives there. Everybody spent most of the day enjoying the magnificent show that these animals always provide.  This Morning we did our two last dives of this magnificent trip again in La Reina with the Se Lions and the Sea Horses, before motoring back towards Cabo, where tomorrow morning this chapter of the adventures of the Nautilus Explorer will come to a happy end. I believe everybody will leave with a smile on their face and a warm heart because of the beauty and greatness of these waters!

Surface Conditions: Windy and cool in the morning developing into a very hot calm mid-day and cool breezy afternoon. A few small swells less than a foot in the morning with calm waters the rest of the time.

Underwater Conditions: The visibility was somewhat limited at between 60ft in the best dive site, and 25ft in the worst case. Temperature was quite cool between 71F and 73F. There was no current most of the time and when we did encounter one, it was very mild and totally negotiable.

DM Peter

Greetings,  Well here we are, at the end of another successful season of diving at the Revillagigedo (Socorro) islands and the Sea of Cortez. And what a season it has been! I’ve been on board since the middle of February, and it was intriguing to witness the dynamism of the environment evinced in my 10 trips this season.

During the winter months, we were graced with the presence of the seasonal visitors to the islands, the humpback whales. These beautiful animals provided a constant source of fascination from the surface, and an unending hope that maybe we might be one of the lucky ones to see them under water! Ah, but huge and majestic as they may be, they can be frustratingly coy. Still, although the chances may be hit and miss, we were blessed with a few magical encounters.

As the months rolled on, temperature and humidity rose, bringing with it more energy to the above water conditions, characterized by more rapidly changing wind and sea states. It also brought an end to the humpback whale season, but as we bade farewell to the whales, so we gave welcome to the sea lions and fish-filled reefs of the Sea of Cortez!

It’s always nice to shake up the routine a bit, and I very much enjoyed the chance to be onboard for our “combo” trips between Socorro and the calm, beautiful scenery of the waters surrounding La Paz, Mexico.  But amongst all that diversity, all the different experiences that touch our trips in one way or another, there was always one constant to look forward to: the eerie, strangely intelligent, curious, and stunningly beautiful giant manta rays.

Leaving the Socorro islands at the end of a season (and our more seasoned clients may attest to this as well) can feel like saying adieu to old friends, and although I may have been working in these islands for the better part of 4 years, I never fail to be touched by the chance to see the mantas.  I could go on – the scalloped hammerhead, silky, Galapagos, silvertip, white tip, and even whale sharks; the bottle nose dolphins, the false killer whales, and pilot whales; the turtles and moray eels; the schooling yellowfin tuna, wahoo, and jacks; and the abundant populations of reef fish. But to do it all justice would require more space than I have here. Suffice it to say I’ve found there’s something for everyone who is enamoured with the natural world.

Time to go now – there’s always work to be done!  Even on my birthday, which was celebrated in fine style by being serenaded by our recent group of German guests! Our chef Juan Carlos even fattened me up with a delicious birthday cake.  Until next season Socorro, vaya con Dios. Next up, Guadalupe and the great white sharks!

Sandy Curtis,   First Mate,   Nautilus Explorer

50 trips to Socorro Island and I still find new experiences above and below the water to take my breath away – First Mate Log – May 17, 2010

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

Good evening! This is first mate Sandy writing, from the beautiful Sea of Cortez near La Paz, Mexico. We have anchored in a small bay on the island of Espiritu Santo for the night, before heading back to the local California sea lion colony, Los Islotes, for some adrenaline-filled diving with some gregarious marine mammals tomorrow morning.  It’s been more than 3 years since I’ve been on a trip to the Sea of Cortez, and there certainly is something magical about it. Some may say that her day is past – that the crowds of pleasure boats and luxury yachts have encroached upon the serenity of the islands, or that the inevitable byproducts of a dramatically increased human presence in Baja California has lead to a negative impact on the local ecosystem – but for anyone whose curiosity may have been piqued by Steinbeck’s classic will still find much to marvel at in the calm, turquoise waters or the stark desert coastline.

It has been my pleasure to work aboard the Nautilus Explorer for more than 4 years now, and although I may be fast approaching 50 completed voyages to the Islas Revillagigedo, Socorro and the Sea of Cortez (in addition to Alaska, the Channel Islands, British Columbia, Clipperton Island, and Isla Guadalupe – phew this boat gets around!), I still find new experiences above and below the water to take my breath away. Diving with giant manta rays, schooling hammerhead sharks, great white sharks, sea lions, dolphins, and humpback whales for many would be more than enough to hold the appeal of a unique job like this for many years, but in addition to all the wonderful natural splendour that we are exposed to in this work, I am also honoured and humbled to have had the opportunity, and the pleasure, of meeting many wonderful and fascinating people, crewmembers and guests alike, from all over the world. To be caught up in a swirl of languages, social backgrounds, political viewpoints (now now, let’s keep it controversy free!!), cultural differences, and unique perspectives, all from the shared common base of a love of the natural world, can be a heady experience and lead to very interesting discoveries about one’s self and the world around us.

Having only recently assumed the role of first mate onboard the Nautilus Explorer, I am enjoying the fresh challenges and learning experiences presented to me in my new capacity, even if I may sometimes complain about having less time in the water! Being involved in the management and planning side to keep an operation like this on an even keel can be quite an interesting adventure. For instance, it wasn’t until recently that I found out that this boat isn’t run on diesel fuel at all. In fact, it’s actually run by a combination of paper, emails, coffee, and checklists. Oh, so many checklists. So many checklists, that we’ve found ourselves having to make checklists for our checklists! Now I wouldn’t go so far as to describe it as Kafka-esque, although sometimes if I’m a little behind, it can certainly feel that way. But hey, that’s why I attended nautical school – to learn how to use a laminator!

The sheer distances and vast differences in cultural regions that we operate in can lead to their own interesting experiences. Around here, just to deal with our day to day work, we all need to speak English, Spanish, Spanglish, Espanglais, Franglish, French, Espancais, Englespanol, and simple pointing and grunting. Hand gestures take on a life of their own. The skill of screaming at people can sometimes be elevated to the status of art.

Boat driving, fixing things that are broken, ordering parts, dealing with bureaucratic paperwork and yelling at contractors can certainly take up a large slice of the workday pie, but whenever we can we all like to find the time to remind ourselves why we do all this in the first place. For me, I usually encounter at least one hour of every trip that brings it home to me why I do what I do. It may be underwater, eye to eye with a giant, beautiful, eerie manta ray. Or it may be on the top deck, on a quiet moonlit night in a secluded anchorage, gazing up at a limitless panoply of stars. Or perhaps it’s that moment of tranquility that occurs just as the last of 24 divers have just jumped off my skiff and dove beneath the surface, leaving only their bubbles breaking the still, dappled surface of a calm day at Cabo Pearce.

It is everyone’s right to complain about their jobs. And I believe that human nature is such that no matter how perfect things can be, someone will find something to complain about, even if they have to make it up. But the moments of magic that occur above and below the surface on every single trip I’ve ever been on are what keep me here, and keep me proud to be involved in such a unique operation such as this. It’s an experience that I wouldn’t trade for anything, and one that will stay with me for the rest of my life. If you don’t believe me, come on board and see for yourself. You won’t regret it.

Sandy Curtis, First Mate, Nautilus Explorer

Captain’s log – Duncan the stowaway on our Socorro Island trip. He is a wee bit smaller than a manta. May 16, 2010.

Sunday, May 16th, 2010

Hello,

Much time has passed and great distances sailed this week; From our outbound Cabo San Lucas departure to Socorro Island, we have visited the three islands in the Revillagigedos Group in Latitude 18North, then all the way up to 24North in the Sea of Cortez. An 850 Nautical Mile journey to see everything from our usuals: Manta and Hammerhead sharks to some unusuals: False Killer Whale, California Sealions, Wahoo  -  and a Brown Headed Cowbird.

This Cowbird, which I named ‘Duncan’ (from the celtic for ‘brown headed’) made his presence aboard known on our first day of the Southbound Transit when he flew into the wheelhouse from the deck.

I don’t mind saying that I love birds,  they are my wildlife interests in these voyages. We have great birds in Mexico not seen in Canada, like the Magnificent Frigatebird who has the longest wingspan to body length ratio of any bird and is a near constant companion soaring for hours at our masthead with a momentum matching the ship. And the comical ‘Booby’, one of the only seabirds with forward sited eyes, rather like a human. A bit of a feather brains, these birds populate our foredeck when at anchor and then stare lamely up at the sky without the vaguest clue how to achieve it. Pre-departure, I go forward and gamely pick them up to toss overboard; I once saw one trying to squeeze his seagull sized frame through an aperture in the deck not larger than his body, all the while flapping its wings to reach the sea and sky before him.. and after 10 minutes of trying he made it through.. didn’t think to just fly up?
Cowbird was our mascot. For six days the bird was’ imprisoned’ in the confines of the ship, freedom to wander about but being a landbird, not able to return from sea. Its not uncommon for us to inadvertantly transplant finches and the like from Cabo to Socorro; I find them on the Sundeck under a lounger looking doleful at the cheerless prospect of never seeing land again. The first scent of the islands on the horizon and they break away for them. Not Duncan. He stayed day in and day out and my hopes were in returning him somehow to his home in the Baja. He took our offerings of water and bisquit as he took to our programme of diving; every divetime he would watch the deck activities with interest from his perch above, then with increasing absorbtion he would skitter across the dive deck between the feet of our guests chasing the tiny larval crabs that are washed up on deck.

Duncan was a favorite, by day three he was eating out of our hands and posing for photos with the guests. Unfortunately, we’ll never know how he fared for by the morning of our Northbound transit Duncan was not in his usual places nor did he appear again. A moderate breeze out of the Northwest was giving us gusts to 20 knots and seas to 8 feet.  The only lively seas in our whole voyage. I don’t think a Brown Headed Cowbird can make Baja from over a hundred seamiles out, and athough he was astute enough not to strand himself at the Revillagigedos, I hope he did turn back to Isla San Benedicto to await our return. He was a most welcomed stowaway and I do wish him well.

Captain Marco

Photos supplied by Sten Johannson and Victor Silva – thank you.